London, a world city in 20 objects: No.3 Maori cloak from Aotearoa

Our weekly series examines an artefact from the British Museum with origins in one of the capital’s diverse cultures
p55 Museum’s Oceanic collection This feather cloak is made from woven New Zealand flax fibre Phormium tenax
25 October 2012

This feather cloak is made from woven New Zealand flax fibre (Phormium tenax). It is decorated with dyed fowl feathers and the green feathers are from the rare kakapo bird — a ground-dwelling parrot species native to New Zealand.

This is one of 153 cloaks in the British Museum’s Oceanic collection, 49 of which have feathers as a decorative element. Feathered cloaks (kahu huruhuru) were increasingly popular from the end of the 19th century, becoming the most prestigious type of cloak at the beginning of the 20th century. This cloak is in superb condition, dating between 1900 and 1906. It was donated to the British Museum by Sir Herbert Daw in 1936 having been one of several cloaks placed on the coffin of Richard John Seddon, a former New Zealand Prime Minister, at his funeral in 1908.

Weaving is predominantly undertaken by women, and cloak manufacture (whatu kakahu) is one of the most highly respected of all fibre arts. Historically the finest cloaks were worn by high-status men and reserved for special occasions. Some were given personal names, reinforcing their significance. Starting with the collection and preparation of the flax fibre and made without using a loom, a cloak can take several months to make depending on the style, complexity and materials used. It is thought that early cloaks took up to two years to finish. Today cloaks are held in high regard because of their associations with chiefly status.

A large number of people visit the Oceanic collection every year, many of whom come to research, contemplate and admire the fibre arts in the Maori collection. The manufacture of cloaks experienced a number of stylistic and material adaptations over time and they continue to be made today. Many contemporary fibre artists are keen to study and replicate traditional techniques, as well as introduce new materials.

The London-based community group Ngati Ranana promotes Maori values and traditions, welcoming anyone with an interest in Maori culture. Also part of this wider community is Te Kohanga Reo o Ranana, an environment for young children and families to experience and learn Maori language.

Ngati Ranana actively participates in a wide variety of events including those in the museums and gallery sector. When the Maori display case was opened in the Wellcome Trust Gallery in 2008, the group performed a traditional blessing of the taonga or treasures on display.

Cloaks in particular are widely understood to be symbols of national Maori identity. The complex artistry is not only respected by the local London Maori community but by those farther afield, by fibre artists, academics and museum professionals alike.

Polly Bence, Oceania curator, Department of Africa, Oceania and the Americas, British Museum

On display at the Wellcome Trust Gallery, Room 24, British Museum, WC1 (020 7323 8299, britishmuseum.org). Open Sat-Thurs, 10am-5.30pm; Fri, 10am-8.30pm. Admission free.

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