Notting Hill Carnival: a local's guide to London's greatest street festival

The speakers are stacking up and the floats are ready to move. Let Notting Hill veteran Connie Allfrey be your guide to navigating the spectacular celebration that is Carnival
Join the party: head to the Notting Hill Carnival this weekend for a joyous celebration (Picture: Matthew Lloyd/Getty)
Matthew Lloyd/Getty Images
Connie Allfrey22 August 2014

Notting Hill Carnival never fails to give a glorious oomph to the end of August (I daren't say summer). The waves of humanity who turn up to walk and dance and watch are well rewarded as spirits soar and the sound of freedom-filled lungs enlivens the air. It is inclusive and giving, as whether you are chipping behind a float in spectacular costume or swigging a warm Red Stripe in the crowd, you are a part of the Carnival if you are there — it's yours.

Having lived in Notting Hill for almost a decade, I still find myself winding up like a miniature toy for several weeks before, along with the rest of the neighbourhood. The anticipation is tangible, floats and bunting appear, colour emerges, groups of expectancy form and swirl and disperse as if plotting some spectacular coup — mostly on my doorstep.

There is a persistent hum of excitement, which transforms into the cacophonous calypso bands practising at the Tabernacle, leaving my windows rattling applause in spite of living way up in an eyrie.

When Carnival appears on the Sunday morning it is intense and addictive, oozing like treacle down from Notting Hill Gate and pouring into every space conceivable. This is my favourite time, launching into the day with a rum breakfast on the balcony with friends.

Thereafter you have to sing for your supper, as Carnival is undoubtedly hard work. The police barricades form strange honeycomb patterns that are impossible to understand, so you are faced several times with a big man or a barrier and forced to walk a good half hour in the wrong direction to get round to the other side. The trick is saying, “I live just through there, sir!”, but it is all a part of the fun.

There is no hiding as the steel drums warm up, nothing to do but surrender as the smoke from the hot oil cooking Jamaican patties and goat curry clouds the air and coats you with an exotic film that’s hard to shift for days.

Suctioned into the thick of a sound-system crowd you are barely yourself, but part of humanity at large, and if you try to extract yourself you will only fail. It’s better to let go and accept that for every scrum there will be a moment of sweet ascendance when you climb the stairs to a friendly neighbour’s loo and briefly observe the masses from a height (if anyone survives my six flights, they are welcome to mine).

Carnival is an unrivalled hotch-potch of races, faces, cutting a million-thread cloth of unanimity. Yes, I have seen fights and once a stabbing. It is intense but kindness, generosity and solidarity still reign at Carnival.

It is a terrible shame that two of the iconic stages, Good Times and Sancho Panza, have had to bow out this year apparently due to building projects in the area of their usual sites, but there is still a plethora of other random paths to explore.

For me it has always been a delight having such a joyous celebration so close to home — I have always felt proud as a parade to be part of its fabric. Any party that is followed by the council scouring your doorstep clean as a whistle can only be good.

Watch The Heatwave's guide to Carnival:

10 reasons to go to Notting Hill Carnival

Gaz’s rockin blues

Outside 103 Talbot Road/Powis Square, Aug 24-25

Tired of the bass? Gaz’s old-time rockers provide the perfect bluesy alternative for those feeling more fluid and breezy. Veteran reggae singers Dennis Alcapone and Winston Fran expected.

RBMA Red Bull Soundsystem

Under the Westway (corner of Portobello Road and Acklam Road), Mon Aug 25

The party that is sure to restore flagging energy on the Monday — always off the chain.

Down to Earth parties

Portobello House, Mon Aug 25

While there are warm-up and after-parties across London it’s a pain having to schlep to Elephant & Castle for the after-party, so stay local with the popular Puppet Parade’s house and techno on Sunday, and some voodoo Carnival magic at the after-party on Monday.

Pineapple Tribe

Ledbury Road (east end of Lonsdale Road), Aug 24-25

These party favourites never fail to get the crowd moving, mixing it up with old and new house, breakbeat and techno.

Rapattack

All Saints Road (junction with McGregor Road), Aug 24-25

Celebrating their 30th anniversary at Carnival this year, expect anything from old skool, soul and funk to Nineties house classics and house and garage.

CMC Matrix

All Saints Road (corner of Tavistock Road), Aug 24-25

Carnival’s drum-and- bass home, strictly spinning the best over the two days.

Aba-Shanti4

Corner of Southern Row and East Row, Aug 24-25

Well-respected Joseph Smith has been pumping out reggae, roots and dub at Carnival since 1993 — inspired by the greats Bob Marley, Denis Brown and Prince Lincoln.

Original People’s Sound

Original People’s Sound Records shop, Aug 24-25

This vibey Notting Hill institution has its own soundsystem outside playing all things Jamaican.

11 All Saints Road, peoplessound.blogspot.co.uk

‘The Date’ Carnival Special Sunday

Loft Studios, Sun Aug 24

Carnival special only five minutes from the action at the well-known Loft Studios with Mick Huckaby, Rahaan, Jimpster, DJ Spen and Phil Ahser.

77-81 Scrubs Lane, NW10, fatsoma.com/events/111755

Sunday West Fest

The Garden, Aug 24-25

The biggest two-day independent party at Carnival, this is not one to miss — with DJs Mark Jenkyns, Victor Simonelli, Robert James and Scott Garcia.

41 Bramley Road, £15, residentadvisor.net

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