David Ellis, On the Sauce at Sambrook’s Brewery Tap: Gloriously, it’s anything but usual

Taprooms usually mean yeast and sweat and beard oil. Not at this glorious, noisy spot, says David Ellis
Easy-going: Wandle’s bitter is one of the beers on offer at Sambrook’s
Matt Hickman/@mattthelist
David Ellis @dvh_ellis9 September 2021

The words “let’s go to a taproom” have much the same effect on me as, say, hearing that a favourite aunt has died. They’re for people who think the most important part of a pub is the beer — when in fact, it’s the least — and tend to draw blokes whose chat-up lines include something about what a tough time of it men are having these days. They smell of yeast and sweat. Taprooms, I mean — but, well…

You’ve picked up my subtle hints and I’m not, you’re taking it, a fan. Well, yeah. Under normal circumstances. But down in Wandsworth, it is very much not the usual circs. Sambrook’s has taken the basic premise of a taproom — lots of beer, for cheap — and then done away with the rest of it. Sure, there are a few Captain NeckBeards tottering about, but they seem harmless enough among the throng.

I turn up on a Friday night, when the place is heaving and noisy, as waiters in black t-shirts dart through straw sunset light brandishing Crust Bros pizzas and bowls of dipping sauce. On the weekends, bottomless brunch is on. They have caught a vibe.

The room is all bare brick, wood benches and columns full of beer still brewing. Yes, there are some funny names (Swamp Donkey, Laughing Juice, Octosoup — only one is made up) and beer nerds will cheerfully get their fill of all sorts, from a wine-strength Imperial Stout to a hoppy Double IPA, via session beers built for chucking back at full speed and wheaty numbers for musing over.

Game: bar staff smartly read the vibe
Matt Hickman/ @mattthelist

It’s all done with a great sense of fun, with staff gamely leaving out all the fermentation chat with those who are just here for a good time but getting right into it for the types who get their kicks from that sort of stuff. They do, after all, know the ropes.

Besides, the beer is really bloody good. My sort of thing is simple, and I go for the Wandle and Junction bitters. “A half or a full pint?” I’m asked by someone who should know better. Soon, thirds and beer flights will follow, for drinkers wanting to taste as much as they can, but in no mood for a hangover.

There are cocktails going — as fast as they could shake them, we gulped down Tommy’s Margaritas made with the same lavender blossom honey Sambrook’s use in their summery Lavender Hill ale — and Prosecco fizzed away as well. In the end I was putting away whiskies and setting the world to rights with my oldest friend, her dropping a few dry remarks on the clumsy hold I have over my love life. Turns out I’ve been getting a lot of things wrong. But then, look, I was wrong about taprooms too. This one, at least, is an absolute dream. They made it look easy. No sweat.

Best for What isn’t beer and pizza best for?

Must order Wandle Bitter, £4.40, Tommy’s margarita, £8.50, Crust Bros pizza from £7.45

1 Bellwether Lane, SW18. Pints from £4.40; sambrooksbrewery.co.uk

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