Showdown at the Lockhart, bar review

The menu at Showdown is an odd looking thing, says David Ellis, but the results are worth going back for 
Beautiful array of spirits: Showdown at the Lockhart
The Lockhart
David Ellis @dvh_ellis28 August 2015

What they say: Showdown, which sits beneath the Lockhart, is an all-American cocktail bar from cocktail guru Matt Whiley (you may know him better as the Talented Mr Fox, from Peg + Patriot, among others). The drinks take the same approach as the restaurant: twisting American classics into something a little more modern.

What we say: All-American is a queasy-making turn of phrase: I always imagine Apollo Creed behind the bar, while Bon Jovi serve cookies and milkshakes. Fear not: The Lockhart is an airy, upmarket riff on New Orleans style dining and its downstairs bar, Showdown, may have a name that hints at the Wild West, but with drinks at around £9 a pop, they’re hardly cowboys.

Order: Pre-mixed drinks dominate the menu, but they’re done well, and avoid the flat feeling that usually accompanies anything that’s sat in a bottle for a while. The Statesman (knotweed, bourbon, cocchi americano, fermented strawberry) serves up whiskey as a summer drink, but keeps its strength. The Louisiana Voodoo (parsley rum, eggplant, fermented honey, lemon) is far less odd than it sounds: the lemon and honey are clean – no danger of it being cough syrupy– and the parsley-infused rum sits on top and stiffens things up. The combinations on the menu read a little bit like a random assortment of English words, but it’s all been thoroughly thought through – in typical Mr Fox style – and at the very least you’ll try something interesting. Of course, if you ask nicely, you may be able to get a taste before you commit.

Behind the beautiful bar top is an even more beautiful bar: nothing about its design is extraordinary, but the selection of drinks is. The range of bourbon and rye on offer is especially impressive, but they aren’t short of gin or mezcal either. The bartender we had, Caroline, knew them all inside out and happily shared her favourites. So, should you be stuck for a drink, pull up a pew and lay down your questions.

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1/80

Good for: If you want a raucous night out, this isn’t the place for it. It’s the place for a few excellent drinks with a few friends, and depending on what you try, maybe a few more after that. On a busy night, it would suit being tucked away in a corner on a date.

By the way: Bring people. It was unfortunate to see the bar extremely quiet on our trip, but we’ll be back again to get a better idea atmosphere. Certainly, it warrants more attention and deserves more custom. Oh, and of course, the bar snacks are delicious.

Find it: Below the Lockhart, 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL, lockhartlondon.com

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