The Gibson, Old Street, bar review: Dazzling drinks from an inspired team

Despite a bafflingly long menu, David Ellis finds there's an awful lot to admire at this new neighbourhood bar
Date night favourite: The Gibson
David Ellis @dvh_ellis28 November 2017

What they say: The Gibson is out to impress until the early hours with dazzling cocktails and a parlour pitched somewhere between Edwardian and Art Deco. Not that you’d pick it up from the name or anything, but they’re doing their bit to ensure London gets back to drinking the classic Martini twist, The Gibson.

What we say: Drinks aren’t simply poured here, they’re tended to, built, thought about, adored.

Marian Beke, formerly of Nightjar, and Rusty Cerven, one time mixologist at The Connaught Bar, are doing as much with presentation as they are with drinks: serves come smoking, in teapots and coconuts and all sorts. Their supply of drinking receptacles is seemingly endless, to the point I was looking for an elf-filled workshop behind the bar. I might have seen one, but that might have been the absinthe.

'There are no rushed drinks: not even tap water leaves the bar without the once over'

This all sounds flippant – oops – but the truth is the Gibson is doing more creatively to push bartending forward than any bar that's opened up in a long, long while. They don't do gimmicks – apart from the glasses – so here it's about nothing more than constant tweaks to flavour pairings. Not everything we had seemed fully formed, but it's exciting to see them at work, and to see what might come next. There are no rushed drinks: not even tap water leaves the bar without the once over. It's a place where drinks nerds can gleefully spend hours being delighted, but (thankfully) doesn't feel this way at all.

One of a kind: the drinks at The Gibson are unlike those you will find nearly anywhere else

Good for: The tiny Gibson seems practically custom-built for dates: it's intimate, in a cool part of town, is vintage-inspired without being twee and has bags of choice, so if you've no idea what your date likes, they're still likely to find something to love. It's too small for big groups, but if you're with a mate, prop up the bar and try as much as possible.

Order: Here there is something of a problem. The menu at the Gibson is long, bafflingly long: the only advantage to this is that you’ll have something to keep you occupied when your date is late.

Top serve: the Wizard of Oz cocktail

So, instead, rely on the staff: they know their list well, and will happily give their recommendations. Trust them: they got it right time over on one long night with us. The classic Gibson (gin, vermouth, cocktail onion) is a must, but otherwise try The Wizard of Oz (rye infused with cherry, maple and maftoul syrup, beirao liquer, blood orange tawny port, smoked corn hair). It seemed familiar and brand new all at the same time.

By the way: For those who know life is short and should be enjoyed, the bar serves cigars too.

Best bars for a date in London

1/26

Find it: 44 Old St, EC1V 9AQ, thegibsonbar.london

Follow David Ellis on Twitter @dvh_ellis

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