Chamonix: chef Merlin Labron-Johnson's favourite foodie hotspots in the French ski resort

Victoria Stewart gets the lowdown from the Clipstone chef
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By Victoria Stewart28 December 2016

Chef Merlin Labron-Johnson is responsible for the food at both Portland restaurant, which won a Michelin star within its first year of opening, and its sister, Clipstone, around the corner. Four years ago, having already worked in Switzerland for two years, he then spent eight months working “over the border on the other side of the mountains” at the double Michelin-starred restaurant, The Albert 1er, in Chamonix, Eastern France.

“When I lived in Switzerland,” he says, “I was situated about an hour’s drive from Chamonix so I’d go quite a lot to eat or spend a weekend there over the winter before I finally went over to work for a summer season, and I’ve been back since.”

Here he shares some of his favourite food and drink recommendations in Chamonix.

Where do you always return to eat when you visit Chamonix?

I used to work at a restaurant called The Albert 1er, a double Michelin-starred restaurant and probably the most well-known place in Chamonix for fine dining - inside a hotel that has been there for over 100 years. It also has this brasserie called La Maison Carrier (44 Route du Bouchet, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France; hameaualbert.fr) which is not particularly expensive and it serves real mountain bistro food - not fondue, but warm, comforting French brasserie food. It has a buffet, and Grandma-style desserts, like crème caramel.

Chamonix
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Where are your favourite quick lunch options?

MBC (350 Route du Bouchet, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France; mbchx.com) is a micro-brewery away from the town centre of Chamonix run by some Canadians. They brew extremely beer, especially the white beer - the beer blanche - and make fantatstic burgers, and it’s a real hit with skiers.

Where is good for great drinks and people watching?

I would recommend going along the river to a street called Rue des Moulins. It’s a tiny street, but it’s where all the bars and restaurants are, and they’re all really nice places to drink - it’s a fun area to hang out in the evening. I would probably drink white beer, which they make a lot of in the Alps. The other place - not particularly known for the quality of its drinks - is called Elevation 1904 (259 Avenue Michel Croz, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France; chamonet.com) which is an après-ski bar on a little square near the station. They always have live music and it’s a really good atmosphere.

Where are your top high-end places to eat in Chamonix?

At the smarter end, there is the restaurant where I used to work - an incredibly expensive two-Michelin starred restaurant, The Albert 1er, in a Relais and Chateaux hotel (38 Route du Bouchet, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France; hameaualbert.fr). It’s really classical French cuisine - the London equivalent is probably somewhere between Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester and Le Gavroche. It also has an incredible wine cellar, and a huge cheese trolley.

Chef Merlin Labron-Johnson

Where do you go to buy specialist food products in Chamonix?

There are shops that sell traditional Savoyarde meats and cheeses, such as Le Refuge Payot (refugepayot.com) which has three shops in town. They’re good, but very expensive - but if you were staying in Chamonix in a self-catering apartment or chalet, it would be nice to buy things like cheese for a fondue. Two great cheeses made around there are the Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage and the Tomme de Savoie. Both are quite hard, cows milk unpasteurised cheeses which you can age. And both you could eat straight or make a fondue out of.

What are your final must-do food or drink tips for Chamonix?

I recommend anyone going to Chamonix to have at least one cheesy meal, especially in winter! There is one place in the town centre that I really like called La Calèche (18 Rue du Dr Paccard, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France; restaurant-caleche.com) which is a really traditional place for fondue. It probably isn’t the best in town, but the decor and the ambiance are incredible - really like a chalet, with loads of quirky artwork and stuffed animals.

Clipstone restaurant is at 5 Clipstone Street, London W1W 6BB; clipstonerestaurant.co.uk

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