Discerning drinker: Italian immigrant

Test these sangiovese wines for a true Tuscan flavour...
14 June 2012

Italian immigrants have taken sangiovese, Tuscany’s great red grape, to many corners of the new world — with pretty mixed success: it’s a fussy late-ripener. I’ve tried some more interesting ones recently, though on the whole they still don’t taste very Tuscan. Judge these for yourself against some of their more affordable Italian cousins.

Selfridges Chianti Colli Senesi 2009 (£11.99). Steadily rising prices in Chianti Classico have made the satellite Chianti denominazioni — like this one to the south of the Classico zone — look more attractive. Made by Montepulciano producer Salcheto, this brims with classic sangiovese cherry fruit and well-judged acidity.

Tenuta di Capezzana 2008, Barco Reale di Carmignano (Roberson, 348 Kensington High Street, W14; Highbury Vintners, 71 Highbury Park, N5; Jeroboams: from £13). Carmignano’s sangiovese-based reds, from just north-west of Florence, are distinctive for including a proportion of cabernet sauvignon. That gives a wine like this a bit more heft and depth than many chiantis, though it still has sangiovese’s trademark bitter notes.

Mayu Sangiovese 2009, Elqui Valley (Asda, £6.48). From a good producer in Chile’s far north, this offers big, rich, cherry fruit — but it’s a long way from Gaiole. Then again, it’s better at this price than just about anything out of Tuscany.

Blind Spot Sangiovese 2010, Gundagai (mail order only from thewinesociety.com, £8.25). From a Wine Society range chosen by talented Yarra Valley winemaker Mac Forbes, this actually boasts classic sangiovese flavours — cherries, a hint of bitterness — even if it’s bigger and sweeter than most Tuscan reds from north of Siena.

Errázuriz Single Vineyard Sangiovese 2009, Aconcagua Valley (Wimbledon Wine, £16.50). A turbo-charged Chilean sangiovese: packed with rich, sweet, smooth berry fruit, though it’s balanced with good acidity.

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