The food blog: heard it through the grapevine

Ever thought about pairing Nouvelle Vague with Viognier or Jimi Hendrix’s “All along the watchtower” with Cabernet Sauvignon? A pair of wine experts are doing just that - matching music to grape varieties. Here's a way to break through those wine barriers.
Mina Holland10 April 2013

Wine-drinking is ubiquitous in London, with an estimated five million wine drinkers in the capital (that's 82 per cent of the adult population according to market research body, Wine Intelligence). Being an oenophile or a wine connoisseur, however, remains elitist. There’s widespread reluctance to take an interest in a subject which is traditionally reserved for a middle-aged, moneyed demographic – those that can afford the regular consumption of (a) a broad range of wine and (b) lots of it and (c) aren't afraid to discuss their preferences with a sommelier.

Now a pair of London-based academics are looking to democratise wine with regular events drawing attention to the relationship between taste and the other senses. Barry Smith and Charles Spence, a philosopher and experimental psychologist respectively, now hold the London Experimental Oenology Seminars (LEOS) through the University of London “to understand all the things that go into people’s perception of flavour” (Smith), attracting research chefs from top restaurants like Momofuku in New York, noma and The Fat Duck, amongst others.

While their research demonstrates how lighting, music, ambient sound, aroma, and the ergonomics of eating and drinking vessels influence how people experience a flavour – either in a dish or a drink – their work proves most interesting when it comes to wine. Smith says, “Talking about how a wine tastes can be intimidating. But if you use another sense, like a feeling or a sound, to describe its flavour then wine starts to become less scary.”

At wine tastings, Smith and Spence take their audience through a set of specially designed musical tracks that emulate “sweet”, “sour”, “salty” and “bitter”, then play a range of songs whose audio qualities complement those of particular grape varieties – like Nouvelle Vague for Viognier (“zingy” or “refreshing”) or Jimi Hendrix’s “All along the watchtower” for Cabernet Sauvignon (“rich”, “deep”, “complex”).

Over time, drinkers grow to know as much about themselves – the different wines they enjoy; how these stimulate their palates; with what occasions these are best combined – as about wine itself. “People say they know nothing about wine,” says Smith, “But if you ask them which music they prefer with a certain wine, they know. We’re just trying to show people they already know this stuff. It’s about getting to know yourself, and picking up a knowledge of wine in the process.”

In 2013, Smith and Spence have been looking at a South American theme with the LEOS and, on April 17 and 18, they turn specifically to Argentina at the Cambalache! event in Dalston, fusing wine, steak, music and more in a two-night-long Argentine carnival. So, what music do you think will best complement the deep, smooth, seductive flavours of vanilla and violets associated with an Argentine Malbec? My money’s on Marvin Gaye.

Cambalache! takes place from 6-11pm on April 17 and 18 at MC Motors, 28 Millers Avenue, E8 2DS. Tickets are £35 including all food and drink. (winesofargentina.com/cambalache/the-event/)

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