A place for friends and family

I'm not a person people would normally associate with football. I'm pretty unfit, have not kicked a football for at least 20 years, and only recently resumed an old habit of watching live games.

But having grown up in an industrial part of the North of England, I've always understood the compelling power of this most dominant of English sports.

Even if the sight of Middlesbrough failing to win anything during my entire childhood caused me to lose interest as a teenager, it did leave a residual fascination with what made football tick.

And a key figure in that sporting clock has been David Dein, the man who paved the way for the massive investment we've seen in the Premier League these last few years.

Dein, of course, was last week the victim of a boardroom power struggle, or was trying to initiate one, depending on who you believe.

His departure, we hear, has deeply affected Arsène Wenger in the process, leaving behind a matrix of intrigue and speculation about an imminent takeover of the club.

Dein apparently first broke the news of his ousting to his friend and colleague at San Daniele del Friuli, close to Highbury and just at the tip of fashionable Islington.

A missing component in some of the newer neighbourhoods of London (Clerkenwell, where I live, included) is the simple 'local' trattoria. In Italy we have such a place, where we rush for an easy supper on the first evening of every visit.

They are places for friends, family and, most especially, for people who feel no need to show off.

The first signs at San Daniele del Friuli were not good. The far wall opposite the table appeared to be made up of a series of plastic bricks. The waiters, who in due course turned out to be charming and attentive, were busily adjusting the rather fierce spotlights in the ceiling to avoid them shining, Stasi-like, into the eyes of the guests.

But we swiftly warmed to it, as we discovered a warm and authentic Italian side to the place that wasn't obvious from first impressions.

The service was swift but perfectly chaotic as glasses were changed without reason and plates of fantastic bruschetta and olives assailed us from every side.

The wine list was the real thing, too - only Italian, and extremely diverse. A very smooth bottle of Roncus Vecchie Vigne, fairly reasonably priced, was followed by a couple of bottles of Val di Miez, and then (of course) some grappa.

The food was good - with one exception - with large portions (it almost required two people to present the veal Milanese) and interesting combinations (such as a salmon, avocado and goat's cheese salad which was perfectly delicious).

The whitebait was pronounced better than that served in a Mayfair haunt famed for its fish: ten out of ten. The exception: the saltimbocca - far too dry - disappointed, which the staff knew and showed genuine embarrassment about.

You wouldn't come here for a light snack or a romantic evening - the music would see to that. But you would come here to enjoy the gossipy company of family or good friends in convivial surroundings.

Although not full of people - there was a football match on, after all - it was filled with the sound of laughter.

Having arrived feeling tense and tired, we had a great time swapping stories and scandal, and the simplicity of the place eased us into that.

The ritual conversation about how absurd it was of the Tories to try to persuade the awful Greg Dyke to stand for Mayor - one loyal Conservative at the table pronounced it the 'last straw' and ripped up his membership card - was energetic.

I bet Mr Wenger was comforted that Dein chose here to break his news. Another famous Islington haunt - Granita - became famous, of course, for the friendship that wasn't, and for double-crossing.

I don't think that could ever have happened at San Daniele, which - unlike that place down the other end of Upper Street - encourages familiarity, honesty and openness.

Imagine how different political history might have been if Gordon and Tony had rejected the avocado mousse and polenta bake in favour of good, old-fashioned San Daniele - and made their agreements here?

DANIELE DEL FRIULI
72 Highbury Park, N5 (020 7226 1609)

Who goes there? Grown-up football supporters; Highbury is just round the corner. If Arsenal win, manager Arsène Wenger celebrates here. On his 53rd birthday the team lost so he cancelled, even though they'd baked a cake. Nick Hornby and Melvyn Bragg are also fans.

Why the hype? Wenger ate here with David Dein prior to the Arsenal's vice-chairman's departure.

What to order? Grilled vegetable grigliati and homemade pasta with classic butter and sage sauce.

Best table Table five seats two by the window, with a bit more privacy.

Cost £29 for three courses without wine.

Restaurant manager Marco Fossaluzza.

San Daniele Del Friuli
Highbury Park, London, N5 2XE

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