A yen for the discreet charm of sushi

In 1992 Alan Yau's Wagamama opened, launching a thousand noodle bars - and he's not put a foot wrong since.

Hakkasan, his upmarket Chinese restaurant, is one of the hottest joints in town; Yauatcha inspired the current dim sum trend; and there are still queues round the block for his Thai canteen Busaba Eathai in Wardour Street.

If the same happens at this new Japanese fine-dining venture it will probably be because diners can't find the infuriatingly unmarked, un-automatic doors.

"Is this hell or Stringfellows?" I wondered as an escalator took us from the ludicrous black shiny marble entrance into a vast first floor with illogically cramped seating.

Here we were greeted by about 30 smiling staff members - all of whom disappeared once we uttered the words "tap water". A wise money-saving precaution, given the only wine on offer is champagne at £30 a glass.

Our waiter was not much help translating an intimidating pick'n'mix menu and additional stresses included having to take your shoes off and a really slow lift ride to the loo. But the food was fabulous. Highlights among our 10, often tiny, subtle-flavoured choices were a naimo mentaiko (£4.50), an appetiser of what looked like chipsticks of Japanese mountain yam with okra and cod roe. A wonderfully sticky miso-sauced Chilean sea bass wrapped in a houba leaf (£15) from the Yakimono (grilled) section is perfect for two to share. My eel (£2.80) was a meaty monster and the best I've tasted.

A bill for under £100 made us almost warm to the place, until they lost our black coats in the entirely black cloakroom. But, like mastering chopsticks, if you're keen to get outside your comfort zone, this is a challenge you'll be hungry to try again.

Sake No Hana
St. James's Street, London, SW1A 1HA