An honest and appealing curry house

'Amsterdam Road' conjures up pictures of old-fashioned docks and wharves, rolling fog banks and cheery East Enders.

In practice, this bit of Docklands is a lot like Milton Keynes.

The redeeming factor is the river.

As the Thames sweeps round in a majestic arc, the restaurant has a superb view across the water to the Millennium folly.

As a result there's a good deal of squabbling for the middle table in the non-smoking section (pole position as far as the view is concerned).

Ultimately, however, the lucky winner must balance the grandstand view of the Millennium folly with the piped-music speaker directly above the table.

Start by sharing a tandoori khazana, which is a platter of mixed kebabs from the tandoor, including good chicken tikka.

Or some salmon samosas? Or the kabuli salad, a winning combination of chickpeas and hard-boiled egg in a sharp tamarind dressing? Of the main courses, macher jhul is tilapia cooked Bengali-style with aubergine and potato.

Rajasthani khargosh is an unusual dish pairing rabbit with a mild sauce and served with garlicky spinach.

Konju papas is a prawn curry in the South Indian style - tamarind, mustard seeds and coconut.

The breads and vegetable dishes are good, particularly the aloo chana - a simple dish of potatoes and chickpeas.

The kitchen is to be commended for avoiding artificial additives and colourings.

And for the 'Kitchen Curry' - 'Each day our chefs cook a different staff curry for themselves.

Usually fairly hot, sometimes very hot.

Only available from 7pm.'

Memsaheb
Amsterdam Road, London, E14 3UU