And a partridge in a Parsee

10 April 2012

One of the problems with Indian food is that India is such a very big place. While we're bleating about devolution and home rule for the English, or Welsh or whatever, the banner "India" binds together a host of different countries, and different cuisines, plus a caste system and an array of different religions each with their own dietary requirements. Thus you can look to the North for kebabs, to Kerala for seafood, to Gujarat for vegetarian specialities. But when you want genuine, full-bore, self-indulgent, hedonistic food you look for a Parsee. You'll find one at

CAFE SPICE NAMASTE,

Todiwallah is a startlingly good chef, and while the food is very genuine and makes use of recipes from all over India, what makes Todiwallah exceptional is his single-minded devotion to fresh seasonal produce. Caf? Spice Namaste is an Indian restaurant that has a "Weekly Speciality Menu". Every Friday it is written afresh with four starters and four mains inspired by what is best at market.

When game comes into season, Todiwallah adds game to the list. If there is a glut of langoustines, then you'll find a Goan dish adapted to make the most of them. Currently, the first partridge are coming to market and there are some wild wood pigeon that have fattened up nicely on the stubble fields. Both are on the menu.

Indian cooks have a long tradition of serving game - venison, doves, sand grouse, partridge, wild boar, and special blends of spices have been developed to complement the gaminess of the meat. One of the particular strengths of this restaurant is the tandoor work, roasting is one of those skills that every chef claims but few get right. With tandoori cooking the marinades are supremely important as the oven is so very hot. Get it right and there is a crisp out-side and tender inside, get it wrong and you end up with rubber.

Try the murg kay tikka - in India, restaurants may be judged by their tikka - here it is very good. Or there's a hot one, frango no espeto piri piri: chicken fiery with Goan chillies. Or maybe the leeli chutney ma salmon? The fish is marinated in a green Parsee chutney and then crisped in the oven - very good. Order a nan with this protein overload and then go on to your partridge - it will probably be partridge behroopia from the specials menu.

Behroopia means with "two faces". Before roasting, one half of the bird is marinated in the gafriel style and the other half gets the much hotter piri piri spices. As the first partridges have only just arrived at market, and the birds are not very gamey, the milder gafriel seems more appropriate at the moment but, as the season progresses, stronger flavours will favour the piri piri side.

To confirm this thesis, try the wild pigeon piri piri, the dark meat of the wood pigeon breast works well with the robust piri piri. The dishes on the seasonal specials menu are generally so successful that the long and interesting main menu can get somewhat overshadowed - but do make room for a real Parsee dhansak, or perhaps a vindaloo, or the lamb shank cooked with ginger, garlic and cumin. Breads are good, vegetable side dishes offer delightful contrasting textures; but it is the weekly specials menu that makes Caf? Spice Namaste such a grand place to enjoy the season's delicacies.

Café Spice Namaste, 16 Prescot Street, E1 (020 7488

9242). Open Monday to Friday noon-3pm and 6.15-10.30pm. Saturday 6.30-10pm. A three-course meal for two with coffee and a bottle of house wine costs about £75

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