Authentic Spanish food, authentic London setting

Say tapas, and the mind makes an involuntary leap towards cool, tiled, old-fashioned places.

Fino approaches the same Spanish virtues, but from a different angle.

There's a stylish bar for drinking on the mezzanine and a bar for eating tapas while sat along the front of the open kitchen downstairs.

The dining room is large and airy and very much in the modern restaurant idiom.

The food is very sound and elegantly presented.

There's a good range of classic tapas dishes and some items fresh from the plancha (a no-frills grill).

Start with some pa amb tomaquet, a tomatoey, garlicky toast.

Add arroz negro, a very delicious squid-ink risotto.

Also crisp-fried squid, delicious with a squeeze of lemon.

The croquetas are good - filled with ham, or piquillo peppers.

From the meat section there are milk-fed-lamb cutlets, which are impossibly small, tender and with good gravy, and a good portion of jamon Iberico bellota gran reserva - top ham, melting in the mouth, amazing silky texture and gentle richness.

From the vegetable section there is a dish of chickpeas, spinach and bacon to add a welcome savoury note.

From the plancha you could choose queen scallops, squid, or clams with sherry and ham.

In keeping with the smartness of the surroundings the wine list is priced on the merciless side, although there are several interesting sherries that are worth investigation.

Ordering from the two set menus will get you five or seven courses, and relieve you of any responsibility.

Fino offers an elegant and sophisticated Spanish restaurant with slick service and prices to match.

Fino
Charlotte Street, London, W1T 1RR