Boisdale's

This review was first published in January 2001

Boisdale should have a large sign outside warning that to step within is to enter a tartan zone. This is an island of respectable, upper-class Scotland, and the whole operation is more geared to lairds than crofters. The mainspring of this establishment is Ranald Macdonald, who is heir apparent to the chieftainship of Clanranald, and while there are no hamburgers (they are probably the speciality of a different branch of the family), you will always see haggis on the menu - from MacSween of Edinburgh, no less.

The cooking is Franco-Scots or Celto-French and service is agreeable - beware the crannachan from the pudding menu. There is also a mind-boggling range of malt whiskies in a dangerous whisky and cigar bar located next door. It is said that nothing complements the peaty, iodiney qualities of some malts like a fine Cuban cigar... but they would say that, wouldn't they? A lively place with a sideline in jazz.

Boisdale
Eccleston Street, London, SW1W 9LX