Cheap thrills: Dining out in London for under £15

From fine wine to superlative steak, Matilda Munro has a guide to dining out in London without breaking the bank
Sound as a pound: cured salmon with horseradish mousse and a glass of white wine at Season Kitchen in Finsbury Park
Matilda Munro5 January 2018

The long shadow of post-Brexit Britain requires tactical thinking, not least when it comes to eating out. Tobleronegate, Marmitegate and now shrinking Tropicana juice cartons, have struck fear into the hearts of many.

The value of sterling is at a three-year low against the euro, and since many London restaurants buy their produce from Europe, it’s not hard to do the maths. We’re now faced with the likelihood that the price of eating out in the capital will rocket. Our pay packets are by no means increasing to match.

But there are solutions. The capital’s food scene is an open and resourceful one. Here’s how to find the cheapest eats without missing out.

Clock watch

Lots of places offer special deals on certain days of the week or times of day. All you need to do is subvert the traditional pattern of your week, going out on weekdays instead of just at the weekend.

Season Kitchen in Finsbury Park has Cheapsteak Tuesdays, where you can get a plump 250g flat-iron steak and a side for just under £15, and mussels or steak are £12 before 7pm on weekdays — worth rushing out of the office to order just before the clock strikes.

If you’re south of the river, Mommi in Clapham does 25 per cent off between 5.30pm and 7pm, and all day on Sundays and Mondays. The wholesome Peruvian-Japanese fusion menu is full of winter warmers and if you head over with the discount in mind you’re looking at a starter, main and a drink for £15.

Drink up

Season Kitchen also has a policy called “pop without the rip”, where rather than imposing higher mark-ups on more expensive wines it makes roughly the same mark-up across the list. In practical terms that means a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, 2008, which costs £100 at Cinnamon Club will only set you back £36 at Season Kitchen.

Otherwise go for BYOB. Roti King in Euston charges £5-per-table corkage and a curry with an enormous home-made paratha is just £5.50.

Mex out

Mexican street food is hitting London in a big way — a blessing to both our tastebuds and our pockets. At El Pastór in London Bridge three tacos and a beer leaves change from £15. It also does ceviche for a mere £8.50.

Corazón, a recent addition to Soho, tops out price-wise at £11 for tacos. Splash out on a Trump’s Wall cocktail, which for £10 contains enough mezcal to help you temporarily forget the present political situation.

Tap into generation next

Culinary prodigies have to start somewhere and there are a couple of great trainee chef-run restaurants that offer professional-level gastronomy for the price of a kebab. Vincent Rooms in Victoria is staffed by Westminster Kingsway College second- and third-year students. Alumni include Ainsley Harriott and Jamie Oliver, so you know they’re not messing about. Its classic brasserie menu has mains you might expect to cost £30 for less than £12 — think braised ox cheek or poached halibut and roast partridge.

Hoxton’s Open Kitchen is similar, serving as the training restaurant for apprentice chefs at Hackney Community College. Beautifully plated-up beef bourguignon with potatoes dauphinoise or duck breast with cavalo nero for £7? Yep. Twelve cocktails, all under £6? You’d better believe it.

Master pasta

Padella in Borough Market is popular for a reason: there are few better and cheaper pasta restaurants in London. The dough is all hand-rolled and topped with gorgeous sauces — try salami, mascarpone and parsley tagliatelle for a paltry £5.50.

Up Norf Weezy you’ll find Ristorante Rossella, a family-run gem tucked in Kentish Town. Wine comes from the family farm in Naples — the house bottles are only £15 — and the most expensive pizza is £8.

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