Comfortable, neighbourhood Italian

Manicomio is an easy-going restaurant that manages to bring off a difficult trick.

Despite being a new project, it gives the impression of being long established, due to genuine brickwork and middle-of-the-road décor.

The dining room was carved out of one end of the Duke of York barracks.

There are some seats outside, which is great if the weather is clement, dodgy when relying on the space heaters.

Service is slick and Italian, which description accurately sums up most of the wine list as well.

The cooking is good and the menu broadly seasonal.

Manicomio is not a place to look for gentle, peasant Italian fare, as there is an edge of chic to even the simplest dishes here - but this is Sloane Square after all.

Starters such as a salad of broad beans and peas with pecorino is as fresh, as green and as good as you could wish for.

Beef carpaccio is very tender, and with a grand zigzag of mustardy dressing.

The pasta dishes are sophisticated: spaghetti with crab, chilli and garlic, or rabbit and Tuscan sausage ravioli - silky pasta.

Main courses are solid: calves' liver with Swiss chard and balsamic; pan-fried halibut with ratte potatoes, tomato and black olives; or grilled leg of lamb with aubergine and pepperonata.

Puds are trad: tiramisù, or lemon tart with pistachio and iced milk.

The brunch menu that is served at weekends is a cut-down version of the à la carte.

Manicomio
85 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LY