10 April 2012

This review was first published in April 2000

Esarn (or Issan) is the name for the North East of Thailand, this part of the 'land of smiles' lies closest to Laos, and one of its greatest delicacies is the fresh papaya salad. Esarn Kheaw is a small, rather quaint old fashioned-looking, Thai restaurant on the Uxbridge Road near Shepherd's Bush and it serves the food of the North East. Service may be a tad jaded and the menu rather long and impenetrable, but there are some delightful dishes to be had. Among the starters you'll find old favourites like the todmun pla (Thai fishcakes) deep-fried and amazingly chewy, keaw krob, featherlight deep fried dumplings, an exceptionally good 'spiced papaya salad North East style' - sharp, hot, sweet and crunchy. The starters list is headed up by Esarn Kheaw sausages, admirably meaty and served in traditional style with a sliver of ginger. Whatever else you have for your main course you should try the num prik pla sod. Num prik (which translates as chilli water) is one of the stalwarts of Thai food, essentially this comes as a small bowl of savoury dip (in the North Eastern style) with an accompanying plate of raw or steamed vegetables - it's as if that old stager the crudit? had gone on its holidays. You dip the veg sticks into the bowl of glop. The resulting mouthful is amazing. The dip is warm, chilli hot, savoury and delicious, while the vegetables are cold and crisp and crunchy. The contrast is wonderful. The other dishes are good too.

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