Factory conversion works well

When they say it's at the factory, they mean it. This restaurant is in the machine room of Wood Green's former chocolate factory on a light industrial estate. Enticing, huh? Well, even my dining companion's spluttering disbelief at being dragged out to such a place subsided when we actually found it.

Mosaica manages to make a cavernous factory room feel downright cosy. The mixture of second-hand dining tables, the hodge-podge of mismatched chairs and the soft lighting and candles all help create a laid-back mood. The open kitchen at one end is also a plus, especially when you have chefs as funny as this lot.

The menu is short but well thought out, changing daily. A generous starter of charred asparagus with balsamic and parmesan (£5.75) had the asparagus cooked just right and the balsamic and parmesan melting into a wonderfully tangy, gooey mix. The plump seared scallops with basil-flavoured black pasta was tasty but had no evidence of the cheap (sic) caviar - presumably why it was cheap.

Main course of moist, tender ribeye steak with mash, baby carrots and beans was a hit and, amazingly, filled the bottomless pit of my companion's stomach. My Thai fish stew was full of delicious chunks of fish, prawns and scallops in a fragrant and deliciously hot broth. With the accompanying big bowl of rice, I couldn't clear my plate either and, having seen how the chef prepared someone else's doggy bag (silver foil moulded into a very impressive swan), I was tempted to ask to take the rest with me.

We still had dessert to tackle, though, and squabbled over who would order the maple syrup and pecan ice cream - I won, it was delicious and I felt very smug until the chocolate mousse arrived: an enormous dollop of blow-your-head-off sticky chocolate heaven.

With a bottle of wine at £15.50, the bill came to £64.75, and the excellent service definitely deserved a tip on top.

Mosaica
Unit C005 Clarendon Road, N22 6XJ