Fay Maschler reviews The Bamboo Flute

Fay Maschler visits a low-key neighbourhood restaurant recently opened by Guo Yue, an internationally renowned Chinese musician who has a passion for food and cooking
Music, food and love: The Bamboo Flute is owned by musician Guo Yue (Pic: Glenn Copus)
Fay Maschler6 August 2014

Chinese flutes and lutes adorn the walls of this low-key neighbourhood restaurant recently opened by Guo Yue, an internationally renowned musician who has a passion for food and cooking. On the menu he invokes a greeting that Chinese people favour: “Ni chi fan le ma?” — “Have you eaten?”

Because of its proximity to where we live we eat there several times. We are on smiling terms with the courteous waiter, whose anxiety about understanding an order is heartrending. We know now what we like — though there is much still to try — and are slightly wary of the kitchen’s tendency to equate sweetness with likeability.

On the last visit, having bought Guo Yue’s memoir Music, Food and Love (Piatkus), I see that some of the dishes we appreciate are in the recipe section. Chilled silk noodles (Guangdong lapi) served with hot glossy fried peanuts, a perfect preliminary course, is one. Aubergine Box, a dish famous in Beijing where Guo Yue grew up in the alleys (hutongs) of the old city — slices of the vegetable stuffed with spiced pork, fried and steamed — should not be missed.

I can’t find Chinese chives with eggs on the menu but have a photograph sent by a friend for whom Guo Yue cooked one evening. I show the picture to the waiter, who shows it to the chef, and soon it appears in all its green and golden crackliness. Just ask, is my advice. Crab sweet corn soup and golden crispy noodle prawn balls are two fine first courses. A steamed sea bass with ginger and spring onions makes a champion centrepiece.

Guo Yue was born in 1958, the year of Mao’s Great Leap Forward. His own leap has been that of a virtuoso and just one unusual and enchanting side-effect is the delightful music playing in his restaurant.

145 Cleveland Street, W1 (020 7387 2738). Mon-Sat noon-3pm & 5pm-11pm. Weekday lunch box £6. Early evening 5pm-7pm, £7.90 for one dish, soup and rice. A la carte, a meal for two with beer/wine, about £80 including 12.5 per cent service.

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