Fay Maschler reviews Townsend: An elegant bistro closed by the crisis — but its savoury menu still delivers

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Fay Maschler18 March 2020

“This is exactly the sort of restaurant I like,” says my younger daughter Alice as we sit down here after visiting the Whitechapel Gallery. This is before the government guideline advising against visiting restaurants, bars and pubs—and before Townsend, opened to sustain locals and visitors alike, announces that like its parent gallery, it will close today.

Fortunately for the curious, they will deliver from tomorrow.

For a gallery founded at the turn of the 20th century which can be credited with early espousal of Jackson Pollock, Mark Rothko, David Hockney, Frida Kahlo, Gilbert and George, Bridget Riley, Sarah Lucas and many more, the roll call of caterers including Maria Elia, Angela Hartnett and Cameron Emirali and Luke Wilson from 10 Greek Street is equally enlightened.

The recently launched Townsend, creation of Nick Gilkinson from Garden Café and Anglo and head chef Joe Fox, previously at Petersham Nurseries, is named for the Grade II listed building’s architect Charles Harrison Townsend. It appeals to Alice, it turns out, for its soft-pedalling. Surroundings in muted colours are stylish and gently lit.

What looks like a freshly sanded parquet floor is a pleasing detail. The hum of conversation from studious people is backed but not obliterated by music, staff wear welcoming smiles and the malleable fairly priced menu creatively acknowledges the important role of plants. This is not my first visit but I don’t resist ordering bacon scones with goats curd and chives again. Who could? Alongside we share crunchy fried squid featuring many tangled tentacles served with a vivid green smoked chilli and wild garlic mayonnaise.

Irresistible: Bacon scones with goat's curd and chives
Adrian Lourie

Paddock Farm (paddock.fm) is a family-run business in Oxfordshire focusing on hand-reared meat including pork from Tamworth pigs. Suppliers to choosy chefs, their pork pie is on the menu at Townsend served with English mustard and gem lettuce. It’s what I order but by mistake I’m brought slow-cooked pork belly with butter beans simmered with shallots and more wild garlic (it gets everywhere). Naturally I eat both, particularly appreciating the homemade healthy quality of the pastry casing on the pork pie.

Alice’s main course is fish soup, which has that saffron-enhanced deep rust colour that bodes well. Paprika-dusted squid rings draped with samphire and celery leaf form a little pyramid at the centre of the shallow soup plate. On another occasion one of my companions, to whom the name Townsend conjures up the sternest teacher in her primary school with her “grey hair pulled back into a wrinkle-removing bun”, orders a dish of lamb mince and onions served with creamed potatoes, that reads like a contender for school lunch. A shepherd’s pie in crisis, she concludes.

Poached Yorkshire rhubarb beautifully cooked, each piece holding its own, comes with rosemary shortbread and clotted cream ice cream; a model assembly. Wines are well sourced and priced, particularly at the upper end.

With every fibre of my being I want restaurants and all who sail with them — hospitality is the third largest industry in the UK — to stay open and thrive. Current official advice leaves them flailing. Government must take ownership of decisions to close so that insurance can kick in.

Coronavirus restaurant closures and cancelled food events in London

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Meanwhile many businesses are organising a takeaway service. From tomorrow Townsend is offering delivery of their signature dishes and favourite wines. Any bottle of wine ordered will come with a free glass of wine to be redeemed when the restaurant reopens. In addition they have assembled a care package of fresh food and store cupboard essentials. Details are on the website.

I’m telling Alice.

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