Fay Maschler's week in food, from Gunpowder to Laksamania

Bite-sized treats: Prawns wrapped around spinach at Hunan
Fay Maschler14 November 2018

At Gunpowder Tower Bridge after Martin McDonagh’s A Very Very Very Dark Matter at the Bridge Theatre, dishes arriving pell-mell elucidate the play’s title. The best is Kashmiri lamb chops.

Lunching with Jamie Byng, publisher of Reg’s last book Albert Einstein Speaking, at Serge in the Mandrake Hotel, an alluring starter is smoked eel, roast beets, plum and horseradish.

Breath of the wok is audible in char kuey teow at jolly, switched-on Laksamania off Oxford Street, also champion for the eponymous noodle soup.

“Leave it to us” rules at Taiwanese-Chinese Hunan in Pimlico. Prawns wrapped around spinach and water chestnut, pictured, star in a parade of diverting mouthfuls.

In the late Howard Hodgkin’s studio, lunch to welcome Mark Morris’s Dance Group, currently performing Layla and Majnun at Sadler’s Wells. Light-as-air rice pilaff is one of the fitting dishes prepared by Black Pot caterers.

Fay Maschler's 50 favourite restaurants in London

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