Fay Maschler's week in food, from Taka to Noble Rot Soho

Feeling greedy: Roast chicken with morels and Vin Jaune at Noble Rot Soho
Fay Maschler14 October 2020

What was Providores in Marylebone is now the sleek Japanese Taka. Crisps studding chef Taiji”s mother’s secret recipe for potato salad is an idea I am pinching.

After loving Bill Murray in On the Rocks at Curzon Soho, sea bass with red chillies at Dumplings’ Legend in Chinatown.

With a cabal of restaurant critics, not politicians, at Noble Rot Soho - the new iteration of The Gay Hussar - roast chicken with morels and Vin Jaune, and a particularly fine riz au pilaf shared greedily but harmoniously.

My chum Melanie Jappy is an accomplished cook as deliciously demonstrated by her Kamado Joe-grilled Presa Ibérica with casseroled cannellini beans.

Maintaining the scorching intensity of Aaron Sorkin’s The Trial of the Chicago 7, supper at Quo Vadis starting, of course, with smoked eel sandwich with horseradish and pickled onion.

Read Fay Maschler's review this week, of jaunty brasserie in St James, Maison François.

Create a FREE account to continue reading

eros

Registration is a free and easy way to support our journalism.

Join our community where you can: comment on stories; sign up to newsletters; enter competitions and access content on our app.

Your email address

Must be at least 6 characters, include an upper and lower case character and a number

You must be at least 18 years old to create an account

* Required fields

Already have an account? SIGN IN

By clicking Create Account you confirm that your data has been entered correctly and you have read and agree to our Terms of use , Cookie policy and Privacy policy .

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in