Fay Maschler's week in food: Bao, Fan Tong and vengeful gambas

This week our restaurant critic was wowed by Bao and enjoyed windowsill-dried cod
Wow: guinea fowl with Chia Shiang rice at Bao
Fay Maschler22 April 2015

1. The buns (bao) are bliss but I like the guinea fowl with Chia Shiang rice (pictured) best, a wow at Bao in Lexington Street — with no queue at 2.30pm.

2. Excellent dim sum lunch at Shikumen with culinary treasures Rowley Leigh and Simon Hopkinson. Hoppy gives us both baccalà mantecato he’d made from cod dried on his windowsill.

3. Prawn and pork wontons with black vinegar and house chilli oil is the standout dish at Wei Wan’s Fan Tong in Dalston. Tonight’s special: confit duck in ginger congee.

4. Sunday walk in Regent’s Park not enhanced by a hotdog at Benugo’s Smokehouse. In a verdant English setting, why offer American fast food — with dive-bombing pigeons rendering it a Hitchcock movie?

5. After seeing the gratifyingly deranged Wild Tales at Curzon Bloomsbury, suitably vengeful gambas al ajillo at Cigala in Lamb’s Conduit Street.

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