Fay Maschler's week in food from Maison Bab to The River Café

Autumnal offering: Terrine at Elystan Street
Fay Maschler26 September 2018

Hummus topped with nuts and za’atar pesto at newly opened Maison Bab in Covent Garden. Using butter beans is such a smooth idea.

Having skipped down Drury Lane after watching School of Rock with granddaughter Amelia, I introduce her to classic tarte flambée at The Delaunay.

Terrine of mallard, wood pigeon and fallow deer with sloe gin-soaked prunes and beetroot. It’s autumn and I’m in Elystan Street restaurant with Phil Howard at the helm.

My companion cycles to The River Café carrying a bottle of 1989 Château Lafite-Rothschild (corkage £30). It rests a while. We graze on pizzetta then order carne cruda to get down to drinking business.

One of Merlin Labron-Johnson’s roles is exec chef at The Conduit, a members’ club fostering “social change”. I try his skittish way with sustainably sourced grouse accompanied by purple haze carrots.

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