Fay Maschler's week in food, from Portland to Elystan

Bite-size bundles of joy: The Kernow spider crab bun at Portland
Fay Maschler
Fay Maschler13 February 2019

From under the heading Snacks, which embroider the cost of a set-price lunch at Portland, diaphanous Kernow spider crab bun. Well worth the additional fiver.

Nôm bò du du, papaya salad with grated carrots and dried beef at Pho Ta, an appealing, sweetly run BYO Vietnamese restaurant discovered through kentishtowner.co.uk.

It was the colcannon with sensitively cooked smoked haddock, poached egg and hispi cabbage at Elystan that made me realise I would never fit into the nipped waist Dior New Look at the V&A exhibition I visited afterwards.

Before choral evensong at St Paul’s Cathedral, where Thomas Liversidge, the young son of friends, sings in the choir, ace Sunday roast at Kym’s including Cantonese crispy pork belly and Iberico char sui.

Seville orange marmalade on toast from the second batch of my 2019 vintage — but no Reg to make it for.

Fay Maschler's 50 favourite restaurants in London

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