Fay Maschler's week in food, from Serge et Le Phoque to Quilon

Lending a helping hand: Panda chopsticks rests at Murger HanHan
Fay Maschler22 August 2018

Heavenly truffle pizza, the thin base crisped in an outrageously fierce oven, at La Bergerie in Bonnieux, the diffusion line of Édouard Loubet’s two-star Michelin La Bastide de Capelongue.

Half a native lobster, poached and tempura-battered, at Serge et Le Phoque, happily divvied up between four.

Biang biang noodles with spring onion & “chilly” oil at Murger HanHan, a singular Shaanxi restaurant off Piccadilly. Not without justification, a murger has been described as the world’s oldest burger. Winsome panda chopstick rests.

The Himmaparn, a crisp, nutty, chicken stir-fry, one of the ‘House Dishes” at Kin + Deum run by the three Inngern Thai siblings, is as fetching as their new Bermondsey enterprise.

A dosa masquerading as uttapam is how my friend Vir Sanghvi describes a blissful crumpety onion-charred creation from gifted chef Sriram Aylur at Quilon in Victoria.

Fay Maschler's 50 favourite restaurants in London

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