Feeling fishy: Fish Hoek

With overfishing in the seas around Europe a serious problem, it is wise to become acquainted with more exotic species. This white South African-owned restaurant - I assume hoek is Afrikaans for hook - offers a long list of less familiar creatures including Natal sardines, parrotfish, St Helena Bay red gurnard, mahi-mahi, leopard grouper and kabeljou (similar to sea bass).

Advances in air-freight transportation mean that a Cape catch can reach the table almost as quickly as a Cornish one. The cooking approach is vibrant, often incorporating lively spices, unrepentant amounts of chilli and tropical fruit salsas.

The availability of half portions of most of the dishes makes wide experimentation possible. Surroundings are attractive with protected pavement seating that is almost Parisian. Service is friendly and staff are willing and able to decode the menu. The all-South African wine list, sensibly focused on whites, is another definite hoek.

Restaurant Michael Nadra
Elliott Road, London, W4 1PE