Five things David Sexton ate this week

Our critic tries out a Fergus Henderson recipe and finds endless delights at a French market
19 June 2013

1. At home, Fergus Henderson’s version of a medieval recipe for cooking smoked haddock with mustard powder, saffron and white wine — amazingly good, such a change from all the usual ways with egg, cream and cheese, killer though they are.

2. Gingery crab cakes and peppery prawn cakes sent in by Jonathan Bailey’s enterprising Potted Fish Co in Devon.

3. On Saturday, from Montaigu de Quercy market in Tarn-et-Garonne, a tourte of Aveyron bread — simply the best bread I have ever found, the bread sold in British farmer’s markets often being sadly puritanical.

4. And over the weekend lots of little broad beans from there too — €1.50 a kilo, the producers there picking them small and sweet, not big and tough, as they do so often here.

5. Burlat cherries, just as they come, from the garden in France. Fruit tastes better unwashed.

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