Galley, Islington – tried and tasted

Lucky old Upper Street - this triumphant new resident is a real stunner
Spanish style: Octopus and chorizo 'a la plancha'
Ben Norum12 December 2017

This smart Upper Street newcomer has been brought about by a particularly talented sibling duo.

Oriona Robb is a well-respected stylist who has worked for, among other places, London Fashion Week and Warner Bros. Her brother, Marcel Grzyb, has been cheffing for 18 years, holding the position of head chef at Soho seafood restaurant Randall & Aubin for 10 of those.

While Oriona has applied her stylist’s eye to the restaurant’s decor, Marcel has built the menu around what he knows best — fish and seafood.

The Poland-born chef isn’t afraid to mix it up, though. He pulls in influences from Asia and South America as well as North Africa and the Med, using predominantly British produce as he goes.

Front row seats: The open kitchen at Galley

Style and surrounds

It’s no surprise that a stylist has been involved. The relatively long and narrow (galley shaped) space drips in casual elegance, from the art deco palmeral wallpaper to the deep turquoise leather banquettes and orange-backed stools that flank the tiled open kitchen. Even the crockery looks set for a photoshoot.

A bar area at the front offers a space for those after drinks and perhaps an odd bite, should the remainder of the 70-seater space be filled with diners.

The back wall is more gallery than backdrop, packed with 50 hand-picked pieces of quirky art interspersed with shiny copper lamps. It’s something of a stunner, and the oh-so friendly staff offer glossy service to match.

Up front: Galley's bar area

On the menu

Split between small and large plates, it’s up to you whether you choose to go down the starter and main route or opt for tapas-style sharing instead. And, yes, every restaurant and its estranged aunt may be offering sharing plates at the moment, but here it feels appropriate given the strong Spanish currents running through the dishes.

From the selection of smalls, octopus and chorizo ‘a la plancha’ scores points for its creamy-textured, octopus (it’s been cured before cooking, apparently) and a feisty smoked garlic pesto. Cheddar and ham croquettes boast a satisfying crunch-to-ooze ratio and are enlivened by harissa mayo. And a ‘Galley fish stew’ effectively a mini bouillabaisse is pleasingly deep-flavoured.

Oysters are also available, both raw and cooked. Tempura Jersey rocks have a bite to them but within are almost as juicy and saline as when raw — another striking success.

Classy creation: pan-fried sea bass

Of the larger options, pan-fried seabass served with gnocchi, peas and wild mushrooms in a light truffle-laced sauce is a classy creation, though slightly crispier skin would have made it a real winner.

A Scottish venison dish — one of just a couple of meaty options — thankfully doesn’t feel like an afterthought. Succulent braised shoulder rubs, well, shoulders, with slices of rare haunch while a silky, delicately smoky potato purée balances the richness well.

Pretty plate: White chocolate panna cotta

Something sweet

A white chocolate panna cotta is more than just a pretty plate. While shards of honeycomb add texture, blackberries and passionfruit provide enough sourness to cut through the sweet richness of the main attraction. A chocolate fondant — always a risky dish — is perfectly executed, as displayed by the thick trickle of chocolate sauce which escapes on entry. Hat’s off to the team.

Glass act: The cocktails are prettily presented

Liquid libations

The 10-strong cocktail list, available at the restaurant and bar, might be considered too adventurous by some — there’s barely a drink which doesn’t contain Earl Grey, mascarpone cheese, beer or a float. But a Wuyi Old Fashioned, made with bourbon that has been infused with lapsang souchong tea pulls off the intrusive, medicinal flavours well. And you can always order a classic.

There are over 50 wines available, including a few English ones alongside a fairly even split of old and new world options. Around 20 of them are available by the glass, while a decent number of bottles come in around £30 and under.

Unusually, the restaurant has also chosen to major in G&Ts, with twelve specifically matched gins and tonics on the list.

The best food in London

1/17

Galley: The Lowdown

Final flavour: Classy, clever and creative cooking in stylish surrounds — all round a bit of a stunner.

At what cost? Small plates range from £7-11, large plates £14-21.50, puddings £7-9.50. Cocktails are £9.50.

Visit if you like: Ember Yard, The Palomar, Honey & Co.

Find it: 105-106 Upper Street, N1 1QN; galleylondon.co.uk.

Follow Ben Norum on Twitter @BenNorum

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