Jonny Woo visits the Queen’s favourite restaurant, Bellamy’s

“The waitress gave me a look as if I’d just admitted to killing the last of the royal corgis”
Modestly elegant: Bellamy's
Jonny Woo17 May 2018

‘Apparently the Queen dines there,’ I told my lunch companion, Tom. ‘It’s summer, wear linen!’

On entering Bellamy’s, a French brasserie tucked discreetly off Berkeley Square, it was clear it’s not really a ‘linen’ kind of place. The mainly male clientele mostly wore dark suit jackets and the low babble of conversation was relaxed if businesslike. Maybe I was expecting more gilt-framed mirrors, extravagant bouquets and fancy napkins from the only restaurant where the Queen, apparently, chooses to dine. Bellamy’s is modestly elegant with typically stylish French prints hung on the walls. We were given a small table in the centre of the room.

It felt a little exposed and I was feeling a little crumpled in my linen, so requested a table at the side. The waitress gave me a look as if I’d just admitted to killing the last of the royal corgis, God rest their souls, and said she would get the manager. It was, of course, no problem and we were offered a more private side table where I could watch the discreet Mayfair set at lunch.

Neither of us drink alcohol so the extensive and I’m sure exquisitely curated French wine list wasn’t explored. ‘Do you have any mocktails?’ Tom asked. I’m guessing it’s more a classic cocktail kind of place and I’ve yet to find a non-alcoholic dry gin Martini, straight up, with a twist (ah, the good old days). The manager suggested the barman rustle us up ‘something fruity’. I wasn’t hopeful, even here, and we ordered two Virgin Marys. They were wonderfully flavoursome; spicy and robust with horseradish, balanced with a bright tang of celery. The perfect accompaniment to the native oysters, which kicked off our lunch, clean and mineral. Tom began to unwrap the muslin-covered lemon before I took it off him and squeezed it over the oysters. ‘Oh! It’s a lemon. I thought it was butter for the bread’. Lol.

The stand-out dish of the meal was the iced lobster soufflé entrée. It was both light and creamy with an intense, rich flavour, which melted away and then, as Tom poetically put it, ‘lingered like a memory’. Tom’s avocado and prawns were as perfect and simple as avocado and prawns could be. Both the filet of Dover sole and the entrecôte were cooked to perfection; served simply without fuss, the sides of spinach and broad beans were wonderfully buttery and looked as satisfying as spinach and broad beans should. No smashing or smearing across the plate, thank you very much.

Being a French restaurant I assumed a crème brûlée would finish off my meal nicely, but not being on the menu, I was advised to try the crème caramel. Tom opted for the rhubarb crumble with ice cream (not custard, fool). Needless to say neither tried the other’s, this time both lost in our own childhood memories of each desert, mine decadently sweet and bursting with vanilla. All I got from Tom was a drawn out ‘Amazing!’ The cappuccino, unfortunately, was gut-wrenchingly disappointing, but on ordering I had thought, ‘Never order an Italian style coffee in a French restaurant.’ ‘Un café’ would have probably got a better result. A surprise glass of what seemed to be chocolate ‘Minstrels’ was a jolly finish to the meal and left me wondering if the Queen was particularly fond of these and would ‘pop them in one’s handbag’ for the grandkids.

The service, while efficient, could benefit from being a little more convivial, but I’m guessing HRH dictates the pleasantries here. Relax guys. I’m a queen, not the Queen. Bellamy’s is refined perfection in the secluded heart of Mayfair. If it’s fanfares and pageantry you are after, perhaps try something closer to Piccadilly.]

Jonny Woo 

Bellamy's

2 Virgin Marys £12

1 Sparkling water £4.50

1 Oysters £27

1 Iced lobster soufflé £14.50

1 Avocado and prawns £13.50

1 Dover sole £29.50

1 Entrecôte £31

1 Broad beans £5.50

1 Sautéed spinach £4.95

1 Crème caramel £8.50

1 Rhubarb crumble £8.50

1 Scoop of ice cream £2

1 Cappuccino £3.75

1 Americano £3.50

2 Cover charges £5

Total £173.70

18 Bruton Place, Mayfair, W1 (020 7491 2727; bellamysrestaurant.co.uk)

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