Kimchi, curries and a Californian ramen - take a bite out of London's new burritos

Had your fill of the Mexican roll? The hot wrap stars are Japanese, Korean and Indian, says Susannah Butter
Wrapped up: the burrito is branching out beyond Mexico

Starchy carbohydrates, meat and invigoratingly hot sauce swaddled in a tortilla may sound like a familiar concept. But the bundle warming up my hands this February day on the Southbank is no burrito — it’s a korrito. Inside the soft bread is spicy pork belly and kimchi fried rice. Now that Mexico’s finest export has successfully taken London, with Chipotle and Wahaca restaurants on every other high street, it is time for the format to diversify.

That means new wrap stars — inspired by Korea, India, the Phillipines and Japan. Purists beware, this spin-off requires ramen noodles instead of rice inside the tortilla. Korrito (korrito.co.uk) founder Joo Lee says: “The wrap is a more accessible way for Londoners to enjoy Korean food. The items that form the foundations of a burrito are the same — rice, meat, salads and toppings — but we stay true to Korean flavours and ingredients.”

The mix of Korean and Mexican food in Los Angeles inspired Lee. “In the Nineties, LA experienced an unstable period that sparked the race riots. Fast-forward a couple of decades and it is a multicultural place, reflected in the new fusion food trends that have emerged. Food can bring people together and open dialogues. We wanted to bring that to London, and also have something that tasted good.”

She has seen customers order one, “devour it in a few minutes and queue for another with sauce all over their face.”

In Islington, Bombay Burrito (bombayburrito.co.uk) makes a folded curry sandwich. Choose your curry; chicken, beef or paneer, and customise with chutney, chana masala, grilled onions and pilau rice.

There’s no ghee, cream or superfluous oil and founders want to prove that curry can be a guilt-free lunch.

Another virtuous option is the Japanese sushi burrito at Hai Street Kitchen (haistreetkitchen.com). It is like a long sushi wrap — so seaweed instead of tortilla — and each is rolled to order. Brown rice is on offer and, in a nod to the burrito’s roots, wasabi guacamole.

The alternative Japanese incarnation is big in California. The ramen burrito features noodles, sriracha pickled onions, and an array of toppings. It has not been an easy sell. Ramen expert David Chang writes in Lucky Peach magazine: “I’ve heard talk of a ramen burrito — that’s the f**king end of everything.” A matter of debate, surely.

Better received has been the Filipino form of the burrito. FiliShack (@FiliShack), in Peckham Square, regularly sells out. New to the menu is the chicken inasal burrito. The meat is marinated for 24 hours in soy, cane vinegar, garlic, lemongrass and ginger and wrapped up with egg-fried rice, pico de gallo salad and homemade sauces. The Mexicans had better up their game.

WHERE TO EAT HYBRID BURRITOS

Korrito, Boxpark, Bethnal Green Rod, E1 6GY; korrito.co.uk

Bombay Burrito, 357 Goswell Rd, EC1V 7JL; bombayburrito.co.uk

Hai Street Kitchen, 38 Leadenhall Market, EC3V 1LT; haistreetkitchen.com

Kimchinary, @kimchinary

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