London's richest cheese

Here's where to get your fromage fix in small packages and on streetfood stands
The best things come in small packages: Banon in a chestnut leaf

There's a scene in Daphne, the new film about a woman in her early thirties living alone in a London flat, where the protagonist is offered a heady substance to inject some joy into her greyscale existence.

She’s been overlooked for promotion at the restaurant where she works and her main sources of company are the Indian takeaway delivery man and books by the philosopher Slavoj Zizek, so when her boss beckons her to meet him on the fire escape because he has something to show her, it’s a thrill.

He produces a black paper parcel and they stare, rapt, as he opens it. Inside is oozing truffled cheese. They devour it with their hands, making comically orgasmic sounds. Such is the power of cheese. It steals the scene.

Looking for a similar fix? Here’s where to find the richest cheese in London, in small packages and on streetfood stands.

Banon

Nothing to do with Donald Trump’s former political strategist, this is a plump round of cheese from Provence beautifully wrapped in chestnut leaves. It has been dipped in eau de vie and as it matures the rind turns from white to creamy gold, developing scattered patches of blue. It’s good on dark rye crackers but spread with caution — this is potent stuff.

Frenchie

If you like your cheese with a meaty side this is the place for you. The menu at this French (the clue’s in the name) streetfood stall and bistro revolves around duck confit burgers. You can get toppings of blue cheese and truffle honey. It all makes for a satisfyingly rich, warming experience.

Eve

A British cheese made in the West Country with unpasteurised goat’s milk. It’s lightly washed with cider brandy (as befits the area) and wrapped in a vine leaf to preserve its soft, floral taste.

Le Bun

More burgers with benefits. The Le Truffle Double is a triumph — two rare-breed patties, cheese and lashings of truffle mayo in a brioche.

6 cheese and wine pairings every Londoner should know

1/7

Little Wallop

This goats’ cheese from Blur singer-turned purveyor of fine fromage Alex James is a labour of love, washed in Somerset cider brandy, parcelled up in a vine leaf and matured for up to three weeks so it can develop a nutty, lemony flavour with hints of brandy. Once ripe, it’s a smooth number and heart meltingly delicious.

£9.75, heartier.com

The Cheese Truck

When you have a cheesy-chips hankering, go here for fondue fries. They will ease any hangover and provide instant cheer. It’s not pure stodge — bite comes from Somerset cider in the fondue and a squeeze of lemon juice to pep them up.

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