Macellaio RC is raising the steaks in Battersea

Steak and wine Italian style as Roberto Costa’s butchery restaurant heads for the neighbourhoods
Ben Norum4 October 2017

Roberto Costa, the butcher from Genoa whose initials feature in the name of this growing restaurant group, has headed into the neighbourhoods for branch number four.

The Battersea site follows restaurants in South Kensington, Exmouth Market and Southwark, and once again specialises in top quality steak along with other Italian-influenced dishes.

The look of this latest restaurant is particularly charming, with a bare wood floor, corrugated metal cladding and hanging meat giving way to comfy fabric seats and large paintings. The result is an eclectic homely feel — somewhere your granny would live if she happened to be a wealthy butcher.

Tuck into perfectly cooked well-aged steaks with bags of flavour, alongside some sensational thick-cut prosciutto, gooey burrata, olive oil-laced steak tartare and bresaola made with supremely well-marbled Fassone beef from Piedmonte.

Straight to the meat of the matter

A rogue gene that exists only in this unique breed of cattle gives it a condition called ‘double-muscling’, which leads to some pretty special qualities. It is incredibly low in fat, and especially cholesterol, but high in healthy fatty acids.

Consider spacing your meat out with homemade pasta in pesto, garlicky buttered spinach or al dente sprouting broccoli flecked with chilli. And save room for dulce de leche fritters to finish because, well, dulce de leche fritters.

Steaks from Fassone cattle are the stars of the show

The all-Italian wine list is also worth an exploration, with volcanic Sicilian reds and little-known grape varieties local to Piedmont sharing menu space with renowned Barbaresco and Barolo wines.

When slick service, superlative meat and sumptuous reds come together like they do here, you have a triumph on your hands. Lucky Battersea locals have gained a new neighbourhood standout — and thanks to its cosy, convivial atmosphere, their’s may just be the best Macellaio yet.

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