May the Fourth be with you

10 April 2012

The Americans celebrate the fourth of July with such vim and vigour because for them it is Independence Day - which begs the question why we Brits don't mark our own calendar for a bit of a bash.

The Yanks may have shed the colonial yoke, but we got rid of a troublesome, argumentative colony that was too far away for us to keep it out of mischief. With hindsight, independence was a good solution for all concerned - at last the colonists could be left to their own devices and would have to settle their own internal squabbles.

If we could only establish this precedent we could have a host of other Independence Days: let's celebrate the day we became independent from India or Australia or New Zealand or Belize. If we rounded up all the small states and isolated islands we have been proud to cut free from irksome colonial bonds, we could rack up several weeks' worth of Independence Day celebrations.

For the sake of convenience (and to place as little strain on the economy as possible), perhaps we could amalgamate all our days into the first fortnight of August? A run of ten bank holidays, with two weekends off to recuperate. Then we could show our American cousins what a real party was like.

In the meantime, we will have to make do with appropriating the fourth of July, and seeking out some genuine American food and drink for suitable celebrations. Despite being the world's most powerful nation, in terms of gastro detente America hasn't cracked it yet.

There are plenty of American restaurants in London, but most of them have a big yellow M outside them and mainly hamburgers inside. American cuisine as we know it (in its slimmed-down export version) will never be up there, going head to head with the French for the world crown, but it can be honest, well-flavoured, and it invariably comes in decent-sized portions.

CHRISTOPHER'S, THE AMERICAN BAR & GRILL, VICTORIA

Whisper it, but one of the most highly-rated American restaurants in London is actually the brainchild of a Briton. Christopher's American Bar And Grill in Covent Garden started life as Christopher Gilmour's homage to the rather grand steak and lobster restaurants that are common on the eastern seaboard of the USA.

The newest of these 'American grills' has an unlikely home in the Thistle Hotel at Victoria Station. The dining room has a high ceiling, some wacky chandeliers and a large bar area. Tables are close together and not over-generous in size. The menu is practical and to the point.

There is a Maryland crab cake with rocket and red pepper mayo - a small disc of fresh crabmeat gets a coating of gloopy pink sauce and is served warm. Carpaccio of beef 'Harry's Bar' presumably qualifies as American food because all Americans like Harry's Bar in Venice. It is sound enough.

There is also a classic Caesar salad which may be served with or without anchovies - a thoughtful touch that will please the purists. Main courses split into straightforward dishes such as salmon fishcakes or roast chicken, then there's a whole section devoted to lobsters and steaks. The lobsters come from Maine and the steaks come from the Duke Of Buccleuch's estate in Scotland - even the one described as New York Strip Sirloin Steak, which is good and accurately cooked, as tender a thick cut steak as you could wish for.

French fries are fine, tobacco onions are better. Next week, on the Fabulous Fourth, both branches of Christopher's are running a special menu - three courses for £35 including a mint julep, and booking is essential.

How about Louisiana pan-fried oysters with celeriac remoulade and Southern catsup, followed by 'Texas rub' BBQ rump of lamb with avocado tamale, finishing off with margarita mousse? Or maybe Minnesota wild rice and duck soup, then New England lobster clambake with chorizo, corn and new potatoes, and after that baked New York cheesecake? Y'all have fun now...!

Thistle Hotel, 101 Buckingham Palace Road, SW1 (020-7976 5522). Mon-Sun noon-3pm & 5pm-10.30pm. Also 18 Wellington Street, WC2 (020-7240 4222). Mon-Fri noon-3pm & 5pm-midnight, Sat 11.30am-3.30pm & 5pm-midnight, Sun 11.30am-3.30pm. ????

ZUNI

Zuni is run by a lady called Glynis Higgins - she comes from Los Angeles and can be pretty disdainful of the vast majority of 'American' food sold in London. Things are agreeably chaotic here, with the occasional wait for dishes alleviated by strong drinks. The pumpkin cheesecake is notable and made to an authentic recipe from Ms Higgins's mum.

134 Fortress Road, NW5 (020-7428 0803). Tue-Sun 7pm-11pm. ??

ARKANSAS CAFE

Every American chef proprietor seems to be gloriously eccentric. Bubba Helberg dresses up in an absurd hat and has won prizes in American cookout competitions for his baby back ribs and special sauce. He has a huge steel pit barbecue in Spitalfields market (to get the ribs just so) and grills a very decent steak.

Unit 12, Old Spitalfields Market, E1 (020-7377 6999). Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, Sun noon-4pm. Private parties by arrangement. ???

SANTA FE

Rocky Durham describes his cooking at Santa Fe, a bright, lively restaurant, as 'American Mexican'. If you use the wicked words 'Tex Mex' in his presence you should wash your mouth out with tequila. The serious side of US cuisine.

75 Upper Street, N1 (020-7288 2288). Mon-Thur noon-10.30pm, Fri & Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-10pm. ???

BAR REVIEW: T.G.I. Friday's

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