Michelin-starred tapas team behind Barrafina take a slice of kebab market

The owners of a Michelin-starred tapas bar are trying their hand at kebabs — the Mexican version.

Brothers Sam and Eddie Hart, who own Barrafina in Soho as well as two more branches, are opening El Pastor near Borough Market on Monday. The venture will serve tacos “al pastor” — shepherd-style — from a rotating skewer of pork.

Sam Hart, 42, said: “In the Fifties a lot of Lebanese emigrated to Mexico City and brought with them the lamb shawarma. The Mexicans soon developed it and swapped the lamb for pork, and the flatbread for tortilla, adding a Mexican marinade. So the ‘shepherd-style’ name is a bit of a misnomer. It is absolutely their answer to the kebab. It became Mexico City’s favourite taco. It’s completely conquered the city.”

He believes the restaurant is the only one in London cooking and serving the dish in the traditional way, with onions, coriander, salsa and a slice of grilled pineapple.

The site, in Stoney Street, is open until 1am at the weekends — but there is no takeaway service. “A pastor needs to be eaten hot straight off the grill, and we don’t want it wrapped up and eaten cold,” he said.

Visit standard.co.uk/restaurants for the latest news and reviews from London’s food scene.

Follow Going Out on Facebook and on Twitter @ESgoingout