Mon Plaisir

This review was first published in September 1999

A Devastating kitchen fire last year destroyed most of the interior of MON PLAISIR in Covent Garden, one of London's oldest and most traditional French restaurants. It seemed a good idea to go back to check that all was well; that modern art had not usurped the old posters for Dubonnet, that fusion food had not tipped gratin?e ? l'oignon and entrecote pommes allumettes from their rightful place at the top of the list of favourites. I can report that, but for the detail of replacing the brick wall-effect wallpaper that used to decorate the original front room of the premises up to dado height, the Lhermitte family have managed the redecoration seamlessly; an old customer unaware of the conflagration might just think the place had benefited from a lick of paint. In other ways, Mon Plaisir has not changed: soups are sustaining; chips are terrific; peas are tinned or bottled; chef's specialities such as cuisse de lapin farci ? la sauce moutarde can make you think it might be wiser not to depart from the classics; service is Gallic but charming; chansons are from Piaf, Brel, Brassens etc; the bill is always a little more than you think it will be or should be. But thank heavens for little - or, actually, not nowadays so little - restaurants like this.