New Order: Hai Cenato’s gelato brioche

Susannah Butter dishes up everything you need to know about this gelato sandwich at Jason Atherton's new Italian
A dish of contrasts: the warm brioche and salted caramel gelato sandwich
John Carey

The dish: Warm brioche and salted caramel gelato sandwich at Hai Cenato, Jason Atherton’s new New York-Italian restaurant in Victoria (£6.50, Cardinal Place, 2 Sir Simon Milton Square, SW1, haicenato.co.uk). Hai Cenato takes the best of American and Mediterranean food and the result is mash-ups like this ice cream sarnie.

The USP: This is a sandwich of contrasts — cold and warm, smooth cream meets the texture of bread. It’s a generous portion, good for sharing and a refreshing way to round off a meal of small plates, handsome pizza, pasta or a nice bit of grilled fish. The restaurant’s name means “have you had dinner?” in Italian but all the food also works for lunch or a snack. If you are feeling abstemious, it does small cones of salted caramel or sour rhubarb and almond gelato (£3.50) so you can still get your sweet fix, all to a soundtrack of songs like Soul Flower by The Pharcyde — good music to eat ice cream too.

The drink: The restaurant’s sparkling Asti Spumante goes well with ice cream, or you could stroll across the square and round off your evening at Rail House Café with a Saffron Spritz (saffron-infused gin, rhubarb liqueur, Chandon rosé and tonic water) or Seoul Train cocktail (rum, Jinro 24, watermelon, lime and coriander) (8 Sir Simon Milton Square, SW1)

The accompaniment: Atherton has invited his chef friends to create guest pizzas — look out for Tom Kerridge, René Redzepi and Heston Blumenthal. There are hand-drawn caricatures of them on the walls too. There’s also a pasta room, where you can watch the masters at work.

Hai Cenato - in pictures

1/10

Create a FREE account to continue reading

eros

Registration is a free and easy way to support our journalism.

Join our community where you can: comment on stories; sign up to newsletters; enter competitions and access content on our app.

Your email address

Must be at least 6 characters, include an upper and lower case character and a number

You must be at least 18 years old to create an account

* Required fields

Already have an account? SIGN IN

By clicking Create Account you confirm that your data has been entered correctly and you have read and agree to our Terms of use , Cookie policy and Privacy policy .

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in