Nobu: Japanese haute cuisine with worldwide notoriety

A well established Mayfair hot spot for fine dining and celebrity spotting
Star attraction: downstairs at Nobu on Berkeley St
David Ellis @dvh_ellis31 January 2018

The backstory: Once upon a time, and a while ago it is now, ‘Nobu’ referred to Robert De Niro’s chef friend, Nobu Matsuhisa.

Tremendous success with his early restaurants saw Matsuhisa become a celebrity in his own right – bit parts in Casino and Memoir of a Geisha followed – and he and De Niro opened New York’s Nobu, built it into a chain, and created byword for celebrity glamour and Japanese haute cuisine. Europe had its first taste in 1997 with Nobu London, on Old Park Lane, which was followed in 2005 by this two story affair. Its bar downstairs – and license until 2am – saw stars rush in all at once, like some celebrity conga. Downstairs has the chic, while upstairs there isn’t much flashy about Nobu, apart from the rainbow of Amex's the customers all seem to pay with. It is comfortable but functional, confident in its food, not hiding.

Who goes there? Oh, everyone, provided they’re rich enough and glamourous enough: Kate Moss, Brad Pitt, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Simon Cowell, Zayn Malik, Elton John, Tracey Emin… pick someone you like and chances are they’ve been. On our evening, my date flirted outrageously and laughed loudly all evening, but it was no use and David Gandy, sat beside us, left with his friends anyway.

What’s on the menu? Japanese fine-dining, with Peruvian influences: consequently, plenty of fish and seafood, though they’re extremely accommodating for vegetarians. The famous, must-have dish is black cod in miso: sounds a little familiar? This is the original, all others a pale imitation. In general, plates are small – no surprises, then, that it’s such a hit with models – but executive chef Mark Edwards has worked flavour into each of them, using bold, bright sauces to perk up the delicate flavours of the fish. The wood oven is for more solid dining: think duck Breast with wasabi salsa, or Iberico pork, labelled with the wonderfully vague promise of ‘Nobu sauces’.

Finely tuned: Lobster Tempura 

Given the restaurant is square and simple, its as if they paid the architect to design the food: plates come elegant and fine, kaleidoscopic with colour. Admire them, they are delicate and clever, special occasion good, and probably plated up with tweezers.

Cheque out: Eating Japanese means you mightn’t stick to starters-main-puddings, but expect to pay mid-teens for an appetiser, mid twenties for a main and around £12 for a pudding if you do. Prices do bounce around, though, and grabbing just one bite more can whack the bill up a bit. Best to accept it’s pricey – what else were you expecting? The Omakase tasting menu, £85 without dessert, £95 with, is a very decent place to start, and at least there won’t be any surprises at the end.

Few around us were drinking wine, and understandably so, with the list beginning at around £40 whether you’re game for red, white or rose. Most of the rest of the list – well, if you’re rich enough to afford it, the price probably doesn’t matter. Still, a glass can be had for £9.50,. Cocktails, at £11.50 or £14, are stronger, and perhaps a little more reasonable.

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Can I book? You can (times have changed). Online at noburestaurants.com, or call 020 7290 9222. Ask to be sat by the window – it’s a little lighter, there’s a little more room, you have a better view of the place. If you're feeling flush, dance at the bar later.

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