Original take on good fast food

This review was published in August 2002

One constant of American TV cop shows is the scene where the careworn detectives wander into a local restaurant to eat junk food and drink coffee, so it seems appropriate to see two policemen lunching in Kebabish, Wembley.

And yes, it is true, policemen are looking younger - today's PC has a Becks haircut. Like the rest of the patient customers, they eat here because the food is fresh, well spiced and cheap.

In the London phone book, you'll find almost 30 restaurants called Kebabish. This one subtitles itself 'original' - as do several others. 'Kebabish' seems to have become a talisman for Pakistani restaurateurs. To customers, it means fast food, takeaway, halal food, cheap and spicy food, kebabs and karahi dishes.

The Kebabish on Ealing Road is busy. There is a restaurant area, but the longest queue is for takeaways. A kebab roll - a round nan with two kebabs and salad, topped with red sauce and mayo - sets you back £1.95. When you take a seat at a wipe-down table, you cannot fail to be impressed by the paintwork: purple overlays pink, while blue is matched with mauve.

As you sit, you get a plate of salads and two small bowls, one contains industrial mayo, the other a spiky chilli sauce. Try the chops: a very decent portion is served on a sizzle dish with caramelised onions hosed down with lemon juice - very tasty. The onion kulcha - thick bread stuffed with onions and herbs - is very fresh and good.

Service is chaotic - you order a meat and dal karahi, you get karahi meat. It's not worth fussing - everything is cooked to order and the people baying for kebab rolls are a distraction for the busy cooks. The karahi meat is good and rich, with slivers of fresh ginger and thick gravy. With all dishes priced under or around £5, it is hard to quibble.

Kebabish Original
40 Ealing Road, Wembley