Perilla goes from residency to restaurant as it brings casual fine-dining to Newington Green

The roaming restaurant is settling down thanks to some influential backers
Perilla: Casual fine-dining settles down
Ben Norum15 September 2016

Following sell-out residencies in Dulwich and Clapton, the duo behind Perilla will launch a permanent site in early November.

Chef Ben Marks and front-of-house Matt Emmerson will open the restaurant in Newington Green, following backing from leading industry figures including Martyn Nail, the executive chef at Claridges; Philip Howard of Elystan Street and formerly The Square; and Thomas Kochs, managing director of Regent Street’s Hotel Café Royal.

Picking up where the pop-ups left off, the restaurant will see high-end dishes served in a casual atmosphere, melding the backgrounds of the two founders.

While Marks cooked elaborate dishes at high-end restaurants including Claridges, The Square and Noma, Emmerson specialised in relaxed service at Polpo and Polpetto.

Perilla favourite: fried duck egg with chopped mussels and parsley

Marks, who grew up near the restaurant, explains: “The idea is to serve top-end food in a casual relaxed atmosphere where everyone feels comfortable and at a price that is accessible.”

Dishes will include some familiar favourites, such as fried duck egg with chopped mussels and parsley, as served in both Dulwich and Clapton, alongside new dishes including roast kale with cod roe, a seaweed bread brushed with roasted lamb fat — a dish based on laverbread and inspired by two Welsh members of the kitchen team — and a cuttlefish Bolognese which takes its lead from Korean cooking but is given a European twist.

Pudding: Preserved plum custard

Desserts will include a preserved plum custard and pears poached in wine and citrus.

A short European wine list and a cocktail menu majoring on gin and homemade infusions will be on hand, while there will also be the option of a drinks flight featuring wines, beers and cocktails to pair with a set menu.

The space itself, on the corner of Newington Green and Green Lanes, features large windows and will have a modern feel with trendy raw plaster render on the walls and an original tiled floor that was uncovered during the build.

It will seat 44, along with 14 at a bar area and will serve dinners from Tuesday to Saturday as well as lunches on Saturdays and Sundays. Visit perilladining.co.uk.

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