Simply traditional

In 1862, when Thomas Davey took over as head chef at Simpson's-in-the-Strand, he insisted that everything in the restaurant should be British. He even went as far as to ban the use of the word 'menu'. From that moment on, the waiters had to refer to the 'Bill of Fare', a phrase that's still in use today. Something of this John Bull spirit still permeates Simpson's-in-the-Strand. When I first set foot in the imposing reception, I felt slightly underdressed. True, I was wearing a dark blue suit and a white shirt, but I'd forgotten my bowler hat and umbrella. Would I be admitted into the Grand Divan, the Baronial banqueting hall that constitutes the downstairs dining room? Or would I be ushered into Simply Simpson's, the rather more elegant space upstairs that's traditionally reserved for the ladies? I was tempted to pop into a nearby pet shop and see if I could borrow a bulldog.

Simpson's-in-the-Strand is a national monument even if, like most British institutions, it's owned by the Yanks. Fortunately, The Savoy Group hasn't let Gordon Ramsay loose on this particular property, as it has on all its grand hotels, possibly because so many of its customers are American tourists. They're looking for the full-on 'ye olde England' experience and in Simpson's-in-the-Strand that's what they get.

Simpson's-In-The-Strand
Strand, London, WC2R 0EW