Still going strong at 50
PUNJAB, 80-82 Neal Street, WC2 (020 7836 9787) £35. Opened in 1947 in Aldgate, Punjab moved to Covent Garden four years later. Three generations of the Maan family have offered interesting regional dishes including pumpkin on puri bread and acharri gosht or murghi where lamb or chicken is "pickled" in Punjabi spices, which sharpens the flavours beguilingly. Regulars join the "Punjabbers" club.
GRENADIER, 18 Wilton Row, SW1 (020 7235 3074) £40. Once the mess hall of the Duke of Wellington's guards, this diminutive Belgravia pub has apparently caught the eye of Mrs Ritchie, doubtless when she was in her car-washing, beer-sipping phase. Food in the dining room is traditional - beef Wellington, of course - but black pudding and chips in the bar can be more fun.
KETTNERS, 29 Romilly Street, W1 (020 7734 6112) £30. Originally opened by Auguste Kettner, former chef to Napoleon III, in 1867, Kettners was recently owned by Peter Boizot, founder of Pizza Express. When he sold the group and Kettners, he stipulated a glass of champagne on each visit. The champagne bar and architectural traces of Edwardian splendour make this truly a place of "affordable glamour". No bookings taken.
RULES, 35 Maiden Lane, WC2 (020 7836 5314) £50. Now that the season for game birds is more or less in full flight - farmed pheasants apparently can hardly be bothered to lift off - make a booking at London's oldest restaurant (est 1798) which supplies the table from its own moors. Cooking is by no means theme park; surroundings are wonderful.
Note: prices indicate the cost of a meal with wine for one.
