Sunday Roasts in London: Piquet, Fitzrovia

Allan Pickett’s new(ish) restaurant makes a glamourous choice for a traditional roast, and don't ignore the starters, says David Ellis
Glamour: the downstairs dining room at Piquet
David Ellis @dvh_ellis15 January 2016

Piquet, Allan Pickett’s new(ish) restaurant, deals in French/British fare. Sat in the wood-panelled, extravagantly wallpapered downstairs, you might wonder how a Sunday lunch could be given the French treatment.

You might even worry our national dish would be at risk of a ruining. Thankfully, this jolly good joint has kept the star attraction properly English, employing the sense of occasion French dining can inspire – proper service, a marvellous wine list, dashes of glamour – to make this a crossover worth celebrating.

The main event: The French/British theme is in full effect on Sundays: being a rosbif, what else could Pickett serve but a forerib of beef, 40 days aged, with yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes? Beef is generously portioned, properly pink but not so rare it becomes an unattractive, unchewable jelly, while the Yorkshire was attractively rich. Elsewhere on the menu, veal sweetbreads and venison loin aren’t to be missed.

A roast seems to sum the place up: Piquet is quiet, unfussy, but sometimes exactly what's needed. It's somewhere one can imagine visiting and revisiting because it’s good enough to deserve it, but not pitched (or priced) as the place exclusively for special occasions.

Pun: Allan Pickett's name was given a French twist to name the restaurant, much like his cooking is

The rest: Have. A. Starter. The pithivier of Littlebourne snails, a small enclosed pie of bright green peas hiding the snails away, was completely beautiful, with a Madeira jus so winning I considered ordering a glass to sip on between courses. Suckling pig with prunes, black pudding and cauliflower purée offers the kind of comfort that could pick you up after heartbreak, with a note of chocolate running through it.

Puddings are straightforwardly British, probably a little too much so, but the cheese board, built like castle ruins, is made to explore. Assistant manager Pietro Lombardo was on hand to expertly suggest picks from Alain Morice’s wine list. Take advantage of his attention.

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Where is it? Oxford Street mightn’t seem likely ground to find a top new opening, but off it sits Newman Street, as far on the edge of Fitzrovia as it possible. It is not a glamorous spot: Piquet used to be an underground car-park, and a car-park would still suit Newman Street well. Still, if Piquet can up its surroundings, more power to it.

Who’s behind it: Thrice Michelin starred Allan Pickett, who previously worked at London favourites Plateau and Galvin Bistrot de Luxe, and who sharpened his skills under the legendarily fiery Nico Ladenis at Chez Nico. Pickett is backed by Andre Blais of Bodeans BBQ.

When can I try it? Sundays, midday until 3pm, though they offer a different roast each day.

Cheque out: The roast itself, £17.50, starters around £7 – £12, puddings around £7. Pair wine to your courses: at 125ml, the serves are small, but the prices are little, at around £5 a glass.

Info: 92 Newman St, W1T 3EZ, piquet-restaurant.co.uk

Follow David Ellis on Twitter @dvh_ellis

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