The English Garden

10 April 2012

It's a good name for a restaurant, The English Garden; conjuring up warm summery picnics and chilled white wine. A name that immediately seems familiar and welcoming. And, in certain circles, it's been a name to drop. This hideaway - down a pretty terraced row off the King's Road - has been discreetly serving the Chelsea set, including royals, for more than 20 years. I imagine a few lace curtains twitched when the Searcy Group took it over in 1999 and Irish superstar chef Richard Corrigan installed his protÈgÈ Malcolm Starmer at the helm. Out went the chintz, in came tranquil colours and slate features. As with Corrigan's Lindsay House in Soho, the various rooms of the original building are retained, giving great intimacy; it's only when leaving that you realise how many people have been dining nearby. Adding to the intimacy is the sleek maitre d' Thierry Talibon, who greeted me as a long-lost Lindsay House acquaintance and guided me expertly through the wine list while overseeing service that was efficient and warm.

Perhaps because it was a Friday, this lapsed Catholic and his lapsed Buddhist companion somehow conspired to order a full fish menu. Starters of grilled sardines and smoked eel were first to appear. Eels were criss-crossed with tiny, crispy bacon rashers on a mound of perfect, moist scrambled egg. An intense red wine jus hinted at Corrigan's influence - clear flavours brought together in unexpected ways is his trademark. But Starmer brings a more subtle hand to the plate, which will please many who aren't convinced fans of his teacher's energetic approach. For example, my companion's grilled sardines were, she declared, the 'most sophisticated sardines ever'. A taste confirmed that this much-abused fish had been brought to previously unscaled heights. So fresh it had almost no smell, it was offset perfectly by a mild stuffing of capers and pine nuts with a hint of lemon - and thankfully no fish knives, a reliable indication of the unfussiness of the operation.

Mains of cod and scallop were equally good. The cod rested on a bed of gratin potato with a few touches of bacon to give it some bite. There was also a subtle dash of cheese; reference to the menu confirmed it as Beaufort - a high Alpine, GruyËrestyle Swiss cheese. Scallops hit a completely different note: borrowing sweet potato and lime from the Caribbean and spices and raita from India. Sadly, a side order of mash that threatened to out-cream Marco Pierre White's trademark dish was too small; I'd have eaten it twice.

Astunning amuse-bouche of peaches and cream kept us going until dessert: roasted bananas with spice bread and banana ice-cream; and a chocolate pot with caramelised oranges and chocolate ice-cream. The repetition of ingredients made these the weakest part of the meal; a blast of something more Corrigan-ish would have been nice - fiery rum with the bananas, a dash of Pernod with the oranges. Perhaps I'd lost patience with the subtlety of everything; my own fault for not tackling the oxtail ravioli, the stuffed rabbit or the pigeon in puff pastry. Next time.

Dinner is £27.50 for three courses, but our meal came to £115 with water, coffees and 12.5 per cent service. Oh, and a bottle of excellent Saint Aubin Chardonnay at £35. Look out for that wine list; it's rather good.


10 Lincoln Street SW3. Tel: 020 7584

7272. Tube: Sloane Square

The English Garden
10 Lincoln Street, SW3

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