The Sri Krishna Inn

10 April 2012

The Sri Krishna Inn is on a suburban stretch of dual carriageway just off the Kingston bypass. Out in the 'burbs you are unprepared for a restaurant serving Cochin and Keralan dishes, and all those strange vegetables and interesting Southern Indian breads and pancakes. You are even more unprepared for the smiling, gentle service.

The Sri Krishna Inn has a light and bright dining room decorated with glass screens, white plaster elephants and the obligatory Keralan tourist posters. The menu is lengthy, it starts with a long list of the various south Indian bready dishes - there are several variations on a pancake theme - uthappams, adals and dosai. Skip the poppadoms for once and share a paper dosai, an improbably large and tasty crisp pancake that comes with chutneys and a bowl of runny vegetable curry for lubrication. Also in the coyly titled 'Ever-popular Specialities' section you'll find fried chicken wing special. They're meaty, spicy and have great crispy bits. Cashew nut pakoda is another outstanding opening nibble - cashew nuts that have been floured and fried.

Make up your main order from three sections: turn to the 'Exotic Cochin Specialities' for dry lamb fry masala or koonthal squid masala. Then turn to vegetable curries: 'avial' means 'everything' and the dish ends up laden with 'drumstick vegetable' which is like okra but with a hard case - you chew the pulp off the tough bits.

The dry vegetable dishes form the third leg of the ordering tripod - beetroot thoran is a thoroughly delicious revelation and there's a good dish of dry-fried green bananas. Add some rice - the lemon and coconut rices are good - and you will have a Southern Indian feast that's well worth a trip to the suburbs.

Sri Krishna Inn, 332 Kingston Road, Ewell, Surrey (020 8393 0445). Dinner for two with beer about £35

The Sri Krishna Inn
332 Kingston Road, Ewell, Surrey

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