The thrill of the grill

There's something about a fierce grill that brings out the caveman in all of us - and that includes otherwise mild-mannered and thoroughly civilised chefs. Maybe it's the barbecue season, or perhaps it's the idea that grilled meat is somehow healthier. Either way, the must-have gadget in every restaurant kitchen is a serious grill.

At Fulham newcomer Brasa they have even gone so far as to name the restaurant after the grill (Brasa translates as "live coal" and the grill in question is an asador, a large and viciously hot grill from the Basque country). Brasa's head chef Danny MacGechan was previously at the gastropub Paradise by Way of Kensal Green and he will be firing up the mighty asador to add something smoky and special to rare breed meats and fresh fish.

Restaurant Tom Aikens is currently closed as he is in the process of completely refurbishing both the kitchen and the restaurant. Aikens, meanwhile, is experimenting in other people's kitchens - anywhere they have a Josper Grill, which is a large, pricey chef's toy that has doors so you can sear food with the doors open and then continue cooking with them closed.

Aikens will re-open in the first week of January and only a fool would bet against a gleaming Josper getting pride of place in his new kitchen.

Another recent opening is American superstar Wolfgang Puck's restaurant Cut at 45 Park Lane - Puck is also a fan of the grill and his new kitchen features two grilling machines and specialises in steaks. Cut has a custom-made grill (by the Gratte Brothers, who have designed the kitchen), which Puck uses to sear the meat over mesquite, charcoal or oak wood to add flavour. Then the steaks go on to the "Montague Char-Broiler", an American device which heats up to about 650°C. Such an outrageously high temperature guarantees good caramelisation.

And while Hawksmoor Guildhall, which opened this week, has a spanking new Josper Grill, it is comforting to know that their Covent Garden branch turns out very good steaks using nothing more advanced than a second-hand charcoal grill bought from a Turkish restaurant. A fancy grill may be on every chef's list but quality meat, properly hung, is just as important.

* brasalondon.com; tomaikens.co.uk; 45parklane.com; thehawksmoor.co.uk