Top five... on the water

Though grubby, polluted, and possibly toxic, viewed from a sparkling window, glass of wine in hand, even the Thames or the canals acquire a serene, majestic glamour.

1. Ransome's Dock

Always terrific, Martin Lam's joint deserves repeat visits for the welcoming staff, stunning wine list and delicious Modern British cooking. A sluggish inlet of the Thames was never so appealing. 35-37 Parkgate Road SW11. Tel: 020 7223 1611. Tube: Sloane Square

2. Smollensky's

Newish branch of the reliable chain with some glorious views. Forget anything on the menu - especially anything complex - other than the excellent steaks. Very Manhattan. Hermitage Wharf, 22 Wapping High Street E1. Tel: 020 7680 1818. Tube: Wapping

3. Lan Na Thai

The featureless exterior belies its overthetop indoors. Expensive, but good Thai food, with a deck over the river. 2 Lombard Road SW11. Tel: 020 7924 6090. Rail: Clapham Junction

4. Blueprint Cafè

Early, enthusiastic Conran: small enough to be manageable, personal touches from menu and staff. Such a great view, you get binoculars. Design Museum, Shad Thames SE1. Tel: 020 7378 7031. Tube: Tower Hill

5.The Waterway

Cool, retro bar and diner packed with decorative young things. A modern, reasonably priced European menu knows its limitations well enough to deliver consistent results. 54 Formosa Street W9. Tel: 020 7266 3557. Tube: Warwick Avenue

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