Trad Peruvian food hits town

While London is awash with ethnic eateries, Fina Estampa's proud boast is that it is the capital's only Peruvian restaurant (if you discount Nobu, p. 87).

The husband-and-wife team running this place certainly tries hard to enlighten the customers, and bring a little downtown Lima to London Bridge.

With its fresh cream-, gold- and coffee-coloured interior, Fina Estampa has a warm and bright ambience and upbeat music, and the attentive, friendly staff add greatly to this vibe.

The menu is traditional Peruvian, which means there's a great emphasis placed upon seafood.

This is reflected in the starters, with such offerings as chupe de camarones, a succulent shrimp-based soup; cebiche, a dish of marinated white fish served with sweet potatoes; and jalea, a vast plate of fried seafood.

Ask for the salsa criolla - its hot oiliness is a perfect accompaniment.

There is also causa rellena, described as a 'potato surprise' and it is exactly that: layers of cold mashed potato, avocado and tuna fish served with salsa - the surprise being how something so straightforward can taste so good.

Main courses - the fragrant chicken seco, chicken cooked in a coriander sauce, or the superb lomo saltado, tender strips of rump steak stir-fried with red onions and tomatoes - are worthy ambassadors for this simple yet distinctive cuisine.

Perhaps most distinctive of all is the carapulcra, a spicy dish made of dried potatoes, pork, chicken and cassava - top choice for anyone seeking a new culinary adventure.