Treat yourself to some morsels with your masterpieces at London's art fairs

There’s nothing like trawling round the art fairs to stimulate the appetite. Emily Jupp picks the tastiest works on show
Emily Jupp18 October 2013

Hoping to discover the next Tracey Emin at Frieze? Pah! You'll have much more fun and it's far cheaper to discover a perfect pizza than a precocious painter this year as the festival has gone all out on its foodie offerings.

Matthew Slotover, co-director of Frieze, says Londoners crave a variety of stimulation, more so than in any other city. “I think London is great at different disciplines — food, art, architecture — and they are all interested in what each other is doing. We love food and a lot of art lovers also love food, so we are really trying to present the best of what London has to offer.”

He’s not kidding. Frieze has food by King’s Cross’s Granary Building residents Caravan, which is bringing back favourites from its original menu such as avocado on toast and Burmese chicken but is also offering small, light plates for the discerning art crowd, including scallop carpaccio with nori purée and pickled cucumber.

The food “draws influence from our experiences of life” says Caravan co-owner Miles Kirby, which is a perfect fit with Frieze, he believes, as that style of cooking has “always attracted a certain type of creative crowd”.

If you’re less from the minimalist and more of the big-wild-splats-of-paint-on-a-huge-canvas school of thought, then you might be drawn to Frieze’s street food as an alternative. The barbecue masters at Soho’s Pitt Cue Co do messy ribs, slathered in sauce, and they do them very well. There are more food truck favourites popping up at Frieze in the form of Moshi Moshi, Pizza Pilgrims and Yum Bun too.

It’s not just Frieze that’s upping its foodie game, though. The Other Art Fair, the main satellite of Frieze, has always had an emphasis on interactivity. Its offerings include Monkshood artisan coffee, a pop-up from new Shoreditch art bar Far Rockaway and a “garden café” on site with outdoor games. Fair director Ryan Stanier says finding the right food and drink was almost as important as finding the right artists.

“I’ve always been very aware of creating an experience, and a fair shouldn’t solely be about buying art, especially as you pay for a ticket. It’s really important to have other activities as well such as a food element, workshops or talks.”

Strarta, a new art fair based at the Saatchi gallery, has gone upmarket with food from caterer Rocket Food and champagne from Pommery. Lesley Samms, its managing director, takes a more highbrow slant with regard to the art fair food trend: “It’s a mutual appreciation of the aesthetic alongside the deep satisfaction of the senses. Both elicit an emotional response and feed our soul.”

So whether you want to feed your soul or just your stomach, there’s plenty on offer at this month’s fairs.

WHERE TO SNACK AND SURVEY

Multiplied Editions Fair

Pick up a hotdog with your Hopper at Norris and Sons, purveyor of New York deli food, including salt beef sandwiches and cronuts.

50:50 presents Synaesthesia

A pop-up restaurant composed of “50 per cent art, 50 per cent food”. Expect plates that look like painters’ palettes.

Animal Art Fair

Hunt for artwork while being kind to animals — Snow Leopard Vodka was served at the launch party for the Animal Art Fair this year. Fifteen per cent of profits go to snow leopard conservation projects.

Sunday Art Fair

Peckham-based restaurateurs Jack Beer and George Howard will provide the food and drink. Beer is formerly of Arbutus and Howard of eatpeckham.com, hosted food events at hipster haunt Frank’s Campari bar this summer.

The Other Art Fair

Drinks are by new Shoreditch venue Far Rockaway. The bar is covered in artworks.

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