Two's company in Blackheath
This review was first published in July 2002
Blackheath is one of London's loveliest villages, a green and pleasant spot south of Peckham which feels more like Dorchester than the Rye.
Blackheath's Chapter Two is one of London's best-reputed modern European locals. It sits in a parade of high-end boutiques and is a serious modern restaurant with sunken architectural lighting, pale walls with Rothko-influenced abstract art, and handsome, aproned staff. Smoke-removing air conditioning keeps the room clear, if a little on the cool side.
When we arrived, a Westlife CD was playing, which felt entirely dissonant with the intended sophisticated air. Our waitress was a shy whisperer and unsure of the menu. She redeemed herself when she showed us a basket of hot rolls. The wholewheat-is-evil argument has one major flaw: the aroma of hot bread is impossible to resist. As a smear of unsalted butter disappeared into my roll, Westlife zoned out and Chapter Two improved.
The food is good here. Gravadlax with sweet mustard and dill sauce was subtly cured. My brother Will enjoyed his sweet cured herrings with potato and horseradish salad and pancetta bacon. Sea bream, potato cake, braised leeks and bouillabaisse sauce was superb, the fish firm and tasty.
The bouillabaisse sauce was a flavour elevator for all the delicate and distinct flavours, whereas Will said the madeira jus with his fillet of Angus beef was a bit of a flavour brake - the old salty reduction problem. With coffee came petits fours - a little walnut muffin, a juicy raspberry Turkish delight, ginger snaps, truffles, and other delectably spongy stuff.
Chapter Two's sister restaurant, Chapter One in Bromley, has a Michelin star and they hope to get one here. Yet they aren't too up themselves to offer the Westlife of after-dinner drinks - a long list of alcoholic coffees, from Mexican to Italian.
